iW Magazine Winter 2017/18 | Page 45

MIGRATING MOON Master watchmaker PAUL GERBER makes it simple to add a lunar dimension to any watch. WHETHER MECHANICAL OR ELECTRONIC, MODERN WATCHES CAN HOUSE MYRIAD COMPLICATIONS AND DISPLAYS- BOTH TRADITIONAL AND TECH-DRIVEN. IN A LOT OF CASES THESE ADDED VALUES CREATE AN AIR OF COMPLEXITY THAT GADGET-GEEKS LOVE TO SHOW OFF EVEN IF THESE FUNCTIONS ARE RARELY (IF EVER) UTILIZED. ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE COIN ARE PURISTS WHO APPRECIATE A CLEAN FAÇADE AND THE ELEGANCE OF A ‘LESS IS MORE’ DIAL. If your own taste for watch-wear lies in the more sober dials, but you still appreciate a bit of watchmaking savvy on your wrist, master watchmaker Paul Gerber has now made it simple to add a lunar dimension to that simply exquisite Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic or that purely elegant Zenith Elite. Early in 2017 one of my long-time watch friends/cli- ents insisted that I must put an evening aside to meet with Paul Gerber. Already a fan of Herr Gerber’s watch- es (double rotor, triple rotor, three-dimensional moon phase) and trusting my man Moritz would not demand my time without good cause, I was more than willing to invest an evening in Zurich to discover what Gerber was up to. It was here while we all enjoyed the fruits of the Reinheitsgebot that Paul introduced me to his new device; a small moon phase sans timekeeper. STRAP-MOUNTED Designed to be mounted directly into the strap rather than the dial, this lunar display came as a complete sur- prise. Expecting one or another complication, or possi- bly some new super-accurate mechanical escapement, I was taken completely aback. Not least of my surprise was the fact that Gerber was fabricating a device with a quartz controller. My initial impression was that of sur- prise. Since my own pre-conceived notions had preju- diced my expectations, it took a moment to adjust to something completely out of left field, like that first sip of a fine whiskey. I soon came to savor the flavor of the concept and the EPR 52 mini-moon phase. Too small for any kind of mechanical motivation, Gerber’s new strap-mounted moon phase (EPR 52) may be battery operated and quartz controlled, but within a 12mm x 5.35mm capsule Gerber has integrated no less than 54 parts in the moon-phase movement (excluding electronic parts) along with another seven machined parts for the capsule enclosure to create a truly unique watch collector’s accessory. 46 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | WINTER 2018 How many parts did you need to make the moonphase? PG: I only counted the mechanical parts! The movement consists of 54 parts and the enclosure out of 7 parts. The total of mechanical parts is 61, again – not including any of the electronic parts. When did you start working on this? I first thought about the idea in December of 2016 and had the first prototype finished in February 2017.   How long will the battery last - and is it a standard and easy to replace style?  The battery will last three years and is a conventional micro cell, Renata 335, SR512SW; diameter 5.80mm, height 1.25mm.    How many variations of the straps available? At this time I have five leather and one natural rubber strap. In the future, I’m sure I will be adding and offering additional leather straps. However, the selection will be limited as the strap will have to be at least 20mm to 22mm wide and 4.0mm to 4.5mm thick.