iW Magazine Summer 2019 | Page 59

A Zenith 384 The Zenith El Primero 384 A 1971 Zenith From 1997, the Zenith El from 1969 from 1969-1972 AH 781 Primero Rainbow Flyback. ZENITH EL PRIMERO TIMELINE: 1962: The idea of launching an automatic chronograph takes root at Zenith. 1966: Between 1966 and 1967, Zenith’s management decides to create the first ultra-thin, high frequency integrated automatic chronograph caliber, beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, and thus able to measure one-tenths of a second. 1995: The first appearances of the El Primero through a sapphire case- back were fully highlighted with the top-of-the-range ChronoMaster line, which displays its flagship movement through the transparent back. 1997: El Primero adds a new flyback function dedicated to aviation enthusiasts in its Rainbow Flyback models. 1999: LVMH buys Zenith. 1969: On January 10, 1969, at a press conference held in Le Locle, Zenith-Movado announces the birth of El Primero. Zenith-Movado was therefore the first manufacturer to publicly announce its own automatic chronograph. Two other groups (Seiko and the Chromatic group composed of Hamilton-Buren, Breitling, Heuer and Dubois- Dépraz) launch–and distribute– automatic chronographs in 1969, 1971: U.S.-based Zenith Radio Corporation, originally a radio and then television manufacturer based in Chicago, buys Zenith. The American administrators no longer believed in the future of mechanical watchmaking, but they had faith in quartz. 1975: In the midst of the watchmaking ‘quartz’ crisis, the new owners decide to cease production of mechanical movements and thus to dispose of the stocks of tooling and machinery required to manufacture the movement. 1976: Against management orders, Charles Vermot, the foreman of Workshop 4 and who had written to management pleading to save the tools (to no avail), decides to safeguard the tools necessary for the manufacture of El Primero. In all, he managed to save about 150 presses along with many small tools and cams, which he hides in an attic (see accompanying story). After storing all the tools, he builds a wall in that part of the attic so no one would discover its secret. 2003: Zenith launches Chronomaster Open. Through a purpose-built dial opening, the El Primero’s escapement is visible.   2004: Under the LVMH group, El Primero welcomes a tourbillon for a model named Grande ChronoMaster XXT Tourbillon. This was the first high-frequency tourbillon on the market. Zenith also releases the first feminine version of the ChronoMaster Open, called Open Star. Its opening was heart-shaped. 2010: Zenith launches the El Primero Striking 10th. Its seconds hand performs a full spin of the dial in ten seconds and the watch displays tenths of a second. 2012: Felix Baumgartner breaks the speed of sound in a free fall while wearing Zenith’s El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10TH. 2014: At the GPHG, the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Lightweight wins the Sports Prize. This El Primero lightweight chronograph teams a titanium and silicon movement with an ultra-sporty carbon case. 2015:  Zenith celebrates its 150th anniversary with the launch of the Zenith El Primero: Chronomaster 1969, a 150-piece limited edition. 1978: Zenith Radio Corporation sells Zenith Watches SA to a consortium of three Swiss manufacturers. 2017: Zenith launches the Defy El Primero 21, able to measure and display a degree of accuracy representing an authentic mechanical feat: one hundredth of a second. Zenith also presents the Defy Lab, equipped with a revolutionary new monobloc oscillator made of monocrystalline silicon. The Defy Lab wins the GPHG Innovation Watch Prize. 1984: Rolex wants to modernize its Daytona model and equip it with an El Primero caliber. Zenith could not afford to invest from scratch, and one employee contacts Vermot, who had retired. Vermot returned to Zenith and showed the new owners where he hid the El Primero’s tools, dies and manuals. 1988: As part of a new ten-year contract signed with Rolex, Zenith delivers the first new El Primeros. The first Daytona watches equipped with a Zenith movement are presented at the Basel Fair. 2019: To commemorate fifty years of El Primero, Zenith launches a series of celebratory El Primero watches (see this article for details). Source: Zenith SUMMER 2019 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | 59