iW Magazine Spring 2020 | Page 33

HAUTLENCE HL Sphere With a newly devised jumping hour that spins on a stunning blue orb, the Hautlence HL Sphere again offers the wearer a new method of viewing the time. At the left of the well-known Hautlence TV-screen-shaped case, the namesake sphere features twelve engraved numerals and rotates on itself through three rotation axes to reveal the current hour. Though it appears random, the appearance of the correct hour numeral is dictated by four conical gears that move around two crossed and inclined spindles. At the right is a retrograde minute display with a hand that travels along a minute track. From this vantage point, the wearer can spy the gear train, which comprises a jumping hour. The differential and snail used to trigger the jumping hour can also be seen. Simply look beneath the minute hand. The white gold 39mm x 46mm x 12mm case has been enlarged to better showcase the movement here, which is the HTL 501-1, a manually wound caliber with a skeletonized balance bridge and a skeletonized drum and ratchet. These expose the barrel spring, which offers an ingenious visual indication of the power reserve. Hautlence has fit the caliber with a safety mechanism that prevents incorrect manipulation during reverse time setting. An alligator-leather strap, in the same blue shade as the sphere, adds the final touch to the piece. Price: CHF 99,000, or about $102,000. IW RATING Design: 9 (out of 10) Innovation: 9 Clever use of jumping hour. Finissage: 8 Top-notch. Legibility: 8 Unusual display takes a moment to take in. Rarity: 8 Twenty-eight will be made. Value: 8 Few watches offer comparisons. Overall iW rating: 50 (out of 60) SPRING 2020 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | 33