iW Magazine Spring 2020 | Page 102

“ I WANT TO MAKE A WATCH THAT MORE THAN TWO GUYS IN DUBAI CAN AFFORD. ” Sketching on Glass That said, the Tread 1’s micro-motor powered, belt-driven and technically amazing wrist wear catered to a very limited audience, and at over $18,000 retail it was as rare as it was ground breaking. A few years down the road and in a prescient moment of clarity, Wilbur declared at one point “I want to make a watch that more than two guys in Dubai can afford.” After several other design projects, Wilbur has now developed the first release of his eponymous Wilbur watch collection. Shedding the cocoon of co-branding, Jason Wilbur has let his creative juices run wild and has taken the modular steel frame only hinted at in the Tread 1 and Tread 2 designs to new heights. Seasoned with the lessons learned from previous experiences in the industry, the new Wilbur 2020 Automatic Launch Edition embodies a stun- ning scaffold of trestle-like design paired with construction and compo- nents that place it squarely at the opposite end of the spectrum from the next $600 Chinese-built copy of a Tudor Pelagos. The expected $2,500 - $2,700 price range, when they become available 102 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | SPRING 2020 this summer, is definitely fair and justified by the complex construction and CNC machining without and within. Launching with three references, each limited to 250 pieces, the nine-piece modular case measures at a robust 44mm by 46mm by 16mm and is CNC machined and hand finished in 316L steel. Inside beats the workhorse Seiko NH35 automatic winding mechanical movement with a customized rotor. Sporting one of the more complex cases currently being made in watch- making, the Wilbur is built to tight tolerances and even with the 9 piece case is made water resistant to 10atm. Custom beveled sapphire crystals ensconce the patent-pending suspended dial structure with a glass chapter ring surrounding the dial. Bolts replace spring bars and hold your choice of a silicone or ballistic nylon strap securely in place as well as securing the steel clasp, while an over- size and over-engineered crown is protected by a machined girder of steel. When you’ve sated your appetite for homage types and are ready for a breath of horological fresh air, Jason Wilbur may have just what you’re look- ing for. More info: www.wilburco.com.