BOUTIQUE
CARL F. BUCHERER
Heritage Tourbillon Double Peripheral
Limited Edition
Late last year, this Lucerne-based watchmaker
finished its 100th anniversary year by issuing this
technically interesting Manero Tourbillon Double
Peripheral with a distinctive vintage design. As
the result of that melding of new technology and
historical dressing, this watch essentially launched
the firm’s new Heritage collection. The change
here, as compared to the debut in early 2018,
emphasizes the watch’s vintage inspiration. Carl F.
Bucherer has designed this newer dial with a very
nice sunburst finish, a milled inner ring and a set of
eleven diamond-shaped indexes inspired by
various vintage watch models from the 1960s.
The watch offers a nicely finished 42.5mm rose
gold case housing the groundbreaking CFB T3000.
The caliber was an early 2018 debut that added a
tourbillon to the existing Carl F. Bucherer
peripherally wound caliber. The ‘Double’
moniker here refers to the peripheral
winding method and to how the watch displays
and supports its tourbillon.
The tourbillon, like the automatic caliber
powering it, is mounted around the edge of its
aperture, along the periphery. This means the
wearer has an unhindered view of the regulator
both from above and below. The device appears
to float within the movement, just a bit more freely
than, for instance, a flying tourbillon, which is
still attached to the mainplate. Carl F. Bucherer
watchmakers have designed the three (unseen)
ceramic ball bearings to support the tourbillon
cage along its edge. Since the tourbillon cage
rotates around its own axis once every minute, Carl
F. Bucherer has wisely added a gold seconds hand
to the cage.
The escapement itself has a pallet and escape
wheel made from lube-free, anti-magnetic
silicon. This means the watch operates with a
longer power reserve than do most with tourbillon
calibers. Expect a power reserve of at least 65
hours, according to the brand. Price: $88,888.
IW RATING
Design: 8 (out of 10)
Terrific mix of vintage dial highlights and
caseback engraving.
Innovation: 8
The tourbillon and the peripheral winding are a
rare combination.
Finissage: 9
The engraving and those diamond-cut markers
are superb.
Legibility: 8
Even the tourbillon seconds hand is easy to read.
That’s not a given.
Rarity: 7
Only 88 pieces will be made.
Value: 8
The Swiss will likely be most interested, given
the caseback.
Overall iW rating: 48 (out of 60)
44 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | SPRING 2019