iW Magazine Spring 2019 | Page 34

BOUTIQUE BREGUET Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel While not the first example of an enamel dial model within the Classique collection, the new Breguet Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel is the first to feature a deep blue grand feu enamel treatment. And, to showcase reverence to its history, Breguet is transposing onto the dial the same blue hue it uses to color its famed ‘Breguet hands.’ And to be sure the wearer can read the watch’s hands as they traverse a Breguet blue dial, the watchmaker has rhodium-plated its historic Breguet moon-tipped steel design. Similarly, the watch’s Arabic numerals, stars, date, diamond shapes and fleur-de-lis on the chapter ring are silvered and sized larger than those seen on other Breguet dials. Look closely at 6 o’clock to see Breguet’s secret signature. Finally, as with all enameled dials at Breguet, you’ll find that the calligraphy on this Breguet Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel echoes that seen on dials designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet, as seen, for example, on the Breguet No. 15 watch launched in 1787. Inside, Breguet retains the self-winding 777Q mechanical caliber it places in past Classique 5177 models. The caliber is thin, which means its fits nicely into the slim 38mm white gold case with fluted sides and lugs that are welded and rounded toward the dark blue alligator leather strap. The 777Q also utilizes silicon for the lever and escape wheel, while its rotor is engine- turned 18-karat gold, and fully decorated with hand-wrought chamfering, circular graining and brushing. Price: 23,100 CHF, or about $23,000. IW RATING Design: 8 (out of 10) Classic, with historic hands and case. Innovation: 7 Silicon components within proven caliber. Finissage: 9 Beautiful, with a notably rich enamel dial. Legibility: 8 Super clean, though the date is a bit tight. Rarity: 7 Limited production, but not a limited edition. Value: 7 A premium price for a gold three-hand with date. Overall iW rating: 46 (out of 60) 34 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | SPRING 2019