GENEVA
DEBUTS
2019
NEW AND NOTABLE FROM GENEVA
By Michael Thompson
A look at a few of the
most interesting debuts
in early 2019.
HILE THE MAJORITY OF NEW WATCHES SEEN THIS PAST
JANUARY IN GENEVA emphasized novel dial work,
moderate sizes and contemporary designs,
several stood out for their technical chops.
More watchmakers this year, especially within the main
group of SIHH exhibitors, showed new perpetual calendars
and watches with interesting, even novel, moonphase
displays. We also saw a flurry of green and blue dials, and
many of the latter were often re-introduced with a wholly
new style of finishing that seemed to change the look of
familiar watches.
For examples, both Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron
Constantin sent entire collections back to their dial-making
artisans for refinishing– mostly with terrific results. In a
similar vein, A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Perpetual
Tourbillon looks positively sexy with its new pink gold dial.
Parmigiani Fleurier, IWC, Girard-Perregaux, Bovet and Panerai
showed impressive new dial techniques and case materials.
W
86 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | SPRING 2019
Indeed, much of the novelty at SIHH 2019 lay in the
technical development of interesting dials, whether blue,
enamel, engraved, skeletonized, meteorite – or
confectionary (as is the case with Richard Mille’s
impressive, if unusual, Bonbon collection.) As a result,
fewer pure technical novelties appeared within the halls
this year.
TECHNICAL FOCUS
But there were numerous exceptions, notably Vacheron
Constantin’s slew of Les Cabinotiers complications and,
mostly, its much-discussed Traditionnelle Twin Beat
Perpetual Calendar.
That groundbreaking design boasts a patent-pending
system that lets the wearer switch between high-frequency
Active mode (5Hz) and low-frequency Standby mode
(1.2Hz). Using the Standby mode allows the possibility of
extending the watch’s power reserve up to an astounding