iW Magazine Spring 2019 | Page 74

Inside the Nanograph A new TAG Heuer tourbillon debuts a first- ever carbon hairspring. BY MICHAEL THOMPSON 74 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | SPRING 2019 MANY WATCHMAKERS IN RECENT YEARS HAVE TOUTED THE ADVANTAGES OF WATCHES fit with silicon hairsprings, citing improved shock resistance, greater precision and complete anti-magnetism. Now, TAG Heuer takes that chorus to the next level with a wholly new hairspring material: carbon composite. The watchmaker’s new Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph, introduced in Geneva earlier this year, is regulated using a carbon-composite hairspring within its tourbillon. Produced by TAG Heuer from a gas, the low-density carbon-composite hairspring offers advantages when compared to more traditional Elinvar or newer generation silicon hairsprings, according to the brand. Primarily, the carbon-composite hairspring is virtually unaffected by gravity and shock. TAG Heuer says it has tested the hairspring in watches that suffered a simulated 5,000- gram/1 m fall onto a hard surface. Where metal hairsprings bent and silicon hairsprings broke, the carbon-composite hairspring remained completely intact. TAG Heuer touts additional advantages, including perfect concentric oscillations (which improve precision) and pure anti-magnetism. In addition, the carbon-composite hairspring is produced with the collet already attached. Usually, this small part, which attaches the metallic hairspring to the balance wheel axis, requires additional assembly that, when not done properly, can negatively affect accuracy. By pairing the hairspring to an aluminum alloy balance wheel, TAG Heuer adds that it has also reduced the hairspring’s negative reaction to both heat and friction. Given all the technical advantages nanotechnology can seemingly offer to movement precision and longevity, we suspect TAG Heuer has already devised plans to utilize its technology inside non-tourbillon calibers in coming years.