iW Magazine Spring 2018 | Page 90

SIHH 2018 Royal Oak RD#2 Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin AUDEMARS PIGUET IN ADDITION TO ITS MULTIPLE ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE 25TH ANNIVERSARY PIECES AND A NEW SERIES OF MILLENARY MODELS, AUDEMARS PIGUET’S 2018 DEBUTS ARE FULL OF NEW COLORS, NEW COMPLICATIONS (INCLUDING A FIRST-EVER FLYING TOURBILLON) AND INTERESTING FINISHES. HERE ARE JUST A FEW OF THE MOST INTRIGUING DEBUTS. AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK RD#2 PERPETUAL CALENDAR ULTRA-THIN After five years of development, Audemars Piguet debuts this ultra-thin 5133 caliber with perpetual calendar, and wraps it around an all-platinum package. The result is not only the thinnest (just 6.30 mm thick) automatic perpetual calendar available, but quite possibly the most handsome as well—with an eye-catching blue dial and Grande Tapisserie pattern. Audemars Piguet explains that to reach its goal watchmakers devel- oped a patented caliber system that features a 2.89 mm central rotor depth and redesigned case that shaves almost 2mm off the earlier Royal Oak Extra-Thin Jumbo. The 12 o’clock moon phase of the new ultra-thin prototype pays homage to the company’s first perpetual calendar from 90 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | SPRING 2018 1955. Functions within the 41mm case include perpetual calendar with day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, night and day indication, hours and minutes. AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK DOUBLE BALANCE WHEEL OPENWORKED Utilizing Caliber 3132, one of our favorite open-worked watches of the past few years, first seen in 2016 in a 41mm Royal Oak case, this new 37mm example offers a smaller frame for the skeletal beauty inside. The watch incorporates two balance wheels and two hairsprings that are assembled on the same axis. This allows the escapement to be visible from both sides of the case while also improving stability and precision---two adjectives not always aligned with open-worked calibers. Audemars Piguet then rhodium-plates the whole work to better highlight the gold regulator and upper balance bridge, and finishes the bridges and mainplate hand with beveling, chamfering, polishing, satin-brushing and circular satin brushing. Two models will be made. One will be offered with a hammered white gold case/bracelet and the other made with a rich pink gold case/bracelet.