iW Magazine Spring 2018 | Page 49

When I first saw the vintage Zenith Heritage , I was immediately attracted to it , which was already a great sign . Then I began my initial inspection to ensure that everything is original on the watch . In today ’ s vintage market , an original dial is critical to its value .
I took the Zenith Heritage watch in my hands to first feel the weight . Then I looked at each component — the dial , the hands , the bezel , the crown , the luminous accents , the case , and the caseback — taking my time and noticing the details . I noted that the watch has signs of wear , but I ’ m okay with that since it ’ s never been polished . I also noticed that the crown is probably not original as it ’ s missing a logo , which will affect its value , as does the lack of original strap and buckle .
The vintage Zenith Heritage timepiece has a beautiful dial with creamy subdials , a true mark of its age . The uniformity of the main dial color is striking while the patina of the three subdials enhances the vintage quality of the watch . Not only is the tritium luminescence in solid condition but also the “ Swiss Made T ” designation dates the watch between 1968 and 1998 . I ’ ve seen other versions of that label that made me question the authenticity of those particular models .
Flipping the watch around , I took the screw-down caseback off to get a closer look at the movement . The vintage Zenith Heritage is powered by the manual winding movement , Caliber 146HP , with 17 jewels . It features a balance wheel oscillating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations / hour , offers a 38-hour power reserve and displays of the hours , minutes , with small seconds at 9 o ’ clock .
After the acquisition of Martel Watch Company in 1960 , Zenith took their movement and adapted it to make the 146 D and H . Everything beneath the watchcase was in working order and to my satisfaction .
Adding to the appeal of the watch is the fact that Zenith just released a new vintage-inspired series . Consequently , this interest in vintage aesthetics will only serve to increase the value of the original vintage model . This particular
Zenith Heritage is quite rare , which of course also increases its value . Generally speaking , a good condition vintage Zenith Heritage with an original crown , band , and buckle would be priced anywhere between $ 8,000 and $ 10,000 .
Overall , this particular example offered a good balance of uniqueness , rarity , and desirability in the market . While the absence of an original crown , band , and buckle decreases its value , those components are easy to source and replace . Furthermore , the fact that it ’ s never been polished makes it all the more attractive . Completing the package is its good looks and functioning movement . But most importantly , I got a good feeling when holding the watch . So after great consideration , I deemed this watch to be suitable enough to add to the website ’ s collection .
There you have it , a little insight on how I decide if a timepiece is worthy of our time . Happy vintage watch hunting !
Martinez is the proprietor of Laurent Fine Watches Greenwich , Connecticut . Read more by him at blog . laurentfinewatches . com or visit his store ’ s site at www . laurentfinewatches . com .
The vintage Zenith Heritage timepiece has a beautiful dial with creamy subdials , a true mark of its age . The uniformity of the main dial color is striking .
SPRING 2018 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | 49