iW Magazine Spring 2018 | Page 114

SIHH 2018 ULYSSE NARDIN FREAK VISION With its new Freak Vision, Ulysse Nardin debuts the first automatic watch in the Freak Collection. The new watch expands the already advanced concepts found in last year’s InnoVision 2 Concept Watch. But new this year are a host of cutting edge features, including a silicium balance wheel with nickel mass elements and stabilizing micro-blades and a new case design made even thinner by a box-domed crystal. Time is still indicated in the usual Freak manner (via the movement itself ) as it rotates around its own axis. But look again, and you’ll see that there’s a prom- inent new bridge made to look like a ship’s hull. The new box-domed sapphire allows for a thinner middle and bezel, and the entire 45mm case is new. HERE’S WHAT ELSE IS NEW ON THIS YEAR’S FREAK: The Grinder Automatic Winding System takes advantage of small wrist move- ments, which gives the automatic system twice the torque – like having four pedals on a bike instead of two – while a flexible guidance mechanism drasti- cally limits friction. Also new is the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Escapement based on the principle 114 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | SPRING 2018 of flexible mechanisms. Ingeniously, it exploits the elasticity of flat springs and presents a constant force escapement made of silicon. The pallet fork is fixed in the center and supported in space on two minuscule blade springs. Mounted perpendicular to each other, they are subjected to a bending force that curves and keeps them in a bi-stable state. The result is a positive energy balance that maintains the oscillations of the balance wheel at a constant rate. DIVER DEEP DIVE The firm’s latest 46mm dive watch is powered by the in-house caliber UN-320 (with its silicon lever and escape wheel and balance spring.) The limited edition of 300 pieces includes a removable titanium guard on the crown, a helium release valve at 9 o’clock and an unusual rubber strap. The strap has an expandable element that adjusts to changes in wrist size during dives caused by the compression of a neoprene diving suit. The watch’s case, water resistant to 1,000 meters, is made of titanium with cut-edged horns and a large bezel with 12-notched teeth. Fifteen hammerhead sharks adorn the dial while another is stamped on the caseback. A bright red one swims on the side of the crown guard.