A
nd for the first time since 2011, we’re seeing Advanced
Research results that aren’t completely linked to Patek
Philippe’s much-touted silicon-based Spiromax or
Pulsomax escapement components.
Only one of the two major technical advances being touted in
this new watch involves the Spiromax balance in the new Cal.
324 S C FUS.
Patek Philippe has reconfigured the new watch’s balance
spring just enough to increase its mean rate from -3 to +2 sec-
onds per day to an incredible -1 to +2, effectively matching the
rate accuracy of a Patek Philippe movement with a tourbillon.
Patek Philippe does this by adding what it calls an ‘inner boss’
to the end of the spring to assist the ‘outer boss’ (the Patek
Philippe terminal curve). The new ‘inner boss’ now enhances ac-
curacy by offsetting positional changes of the center of gravity.
In other words, no matter how the watch is held or moved,
the balance spring’s expansion and contraction rate will not be
affected.
But the most interesting– and most visible– result of Ad-
vanced Research is seen directly through the open space on
the Aquanaut dial–and it has nothing to do with silicon. The
watch’s very un-Patek-like open dial aperture exposes an en-
tirely new flexible steel component that now controls the GMT
indication forwards and backwards.
Using four crossed leaf springs instead of gears or pivots, the
new component reduces the overall number of parts required
for GMT switching from about thirty-seven to twelve. Patek
Philippe says the new technique results in “no mechanical play,
no friction, and no arbor wear, which assures completely lu-
bricant-free functionality.” It’s a novel approach to heightened
efficiency, and it’s one new component Patek Philippe feels
should be seen as it operates.
As this is a Patek Philippe watch, all these new components
are finished as you might expect. The visible surfaces are pre-
cision ground, the invisible undersides carefully brushed, and
the insides of the leaf springs are sandblasted. All edges are
chamfered and polished (except, for functional reasons, those
of the leaf springs). The surfaces around the mounting screws
are circular grained.
Patek Philippe will make the Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650
Patek Philippe Advanced Research in a limited edition of 500
white gold watches. Price: $58,970
SUMMER 2017 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | 65