iW Magazine iW Magazine Summer 2017 | Page 170

WHY IS IT COUNTERFEIT? WRONG MOVEMENT counterfeits. However as soon as you put the name or logo “Rolex or Omega or Panerai” anywhere on that watch it becomes counterfeit. As counterfeiters get better and better at reproducing the external characteristics of watches, the movement is becoming even more valuable in determining authenticity. Gone are the days when quartz move- ments were put into automatic watches and the action of the second hand was all you needed to consider. Today’s counterfeiters make mechanical movements, complete with complications. Copied movements cause problems for external identifi cation because the dials will be in the correct position and the functions will work correctly. However, fakes are made to a budget and that means they are hugely inferior in qual- ity and reliability. Remember, a Rolex has a warranty of fi ve years. Try fi nding the fake Rolex man on the beach fi fty minutes after purchasing that knockoff . Buying counterfeit watches even at the $200 price point, steals sales away from legitimate brands such as Bulova, Seiko or Citizen, each of which sells watches at these price points. This is very bad for the overall industry. For my Luxury or Lie? class and train- ing I own dozens of fake watches by all manufacturers, and most will operate about as long as a prawn sandwich is edible. And you have no comeback to the clandestine Chinese manufacturer. (One final strange anecdote – I could not bring my pieces into the U.S. for purely training purposes, yet I could easily order a package of six replace- ment “replica” watches from China, on two ADAM HARRIS Adam was born in Glasgow, Scotland, lived in England and retired to Spain. H e has served as a guest wristwatch curator at the National Watch and Clock Museum from 2012-2016. His background is as an electronic engineer. He spent the past 25 years prior to retirement as vice president of Fujitsu Europe and other Japanese and British companies. Since retiring, he studied horology under Mme. Cinette Robert, ex-owner of Dubey and Schaldenbrand, Mr. Marcus Hardy of Vintage Jewelry, and as a guest appraiser in a Pawn Shop – Gold Rush. Adam has a large collection of more than 200 vintage watches, which are part of his knowledge in appraising timepieces. 168 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | SUMMER 2017 separate occasions. Seems only Chinese companies can import counterfeit items into U.S. Again – go figure.) The fact that is fakers can only give the appearance of quality. There has been no research and development, no stress test- ing, no chronometer tests, no waterproof- ing tests. What you have is a cheap Asian movement pretending to be an expensive, highly developed and tested timepiece. These entitities cannot produce the substance or the functionality of the real thing. However, counterfeiters are getting very close – and it is scary. Remember that the genuine piece comes with a name usually gained by years of good reputation, stemming from quality and reliability. And that comes with a price. HIS AREAS OF INTERESTS INCLUDE:  1) Early Rolex from 1910 to 1950 2) First early automatics from 1923 to 1940 3) Beginning of the wristwatch (so called trench watches) 1900 to 1920 4) Early hermetic / sealed watches (1910 to 1930) 5) American wristwatches