iW Magazine iW Magazine Summer 2017 | Page 124

BASELREVIEW2017 Complications/Technical ARMIN STROM MIRRORED FORCE RESONANCE ARMIN STROM IMPRESSED MANY at Baselworld with its interpretation of a resonance-regulated timepiece. This means two balance wheels oscillate in close proximity to influence each other and, ultimately, to synchronize. By mutually compensating rate error, they increase the watch’s precision, reduce the negative effects on accuracy of outside factors such as shocks, and conserve energy. Armin Strom shows off this phenomenon by way of a patented resonance clutch spring that connects the two regulators. They enter into resonance as they rotate in opposite directions–and all of this is visible from the dial side. ANGELUS U21 TOURBILLON WITH A CARBON FIBER MAIN PLATE, the Angelus U21 and U22 Tourbillons extend an Angelus story that started last year with the Angelus U20. Like that much-acclaimed skeletonized tourbillon, with its blue titanium bridges and sapphire mainplate, these two new Angelus watches emphasize high-tech materials, open architecture and a minimalistic approach to presenting complicated watchmaking. New this year, however, is an even stronger dose of contemporary design, if that’s possible with a piece like this. By using the aforementioned carbon fiber plates on both new models, Angelus also emphasizes lightweight design (especially with the titanium-cased U22 Tourbillon, which weights less than 54 grams), though I suspect this is more a notable byproduct of using such material rather than Angelus’s aim here. Primarily, Angelus wants us to marvel at the streamlined design and ‘structural optimization’ of these two new limited-edition (18 pieces) executions. And with no bezels on either model, every essential gear and bridge is plainly visible, even when viewing the dial from the side (thanks to the domed sapphire crystal.) This transparency is essentially because Angelus says it has built this movement as a showpiece. Each watch presents an almost instructional mechanical portrait showing how bridges hold gears that then propel hands via the mesmerizing actions of a tourbillon. That tourbillon features a variable inertia balance wheel Angelus has designed to minimize air friction. And the patterned carbon fiber used in the main plate is built for strength, offering maximum rigidity. Notably visible from the back, the caliber’s ruby bearings are set into solid gold chatons. All components are hand-chamfered, hand-polished and hand satin-finished to ensure that their haute appearance echoes their smart engineering. Prices: Angelus U21 Tourbillon (pictured): $52,200. Angelus U22 Tourbillon: $37,995. Each is a made as a limited edition of eighteen pieces. 122 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | SUMMER 2017