The Nomos DUW 3001
movement, showing
balance bridge
The new Nomos
Metro in a 33mm
rose gold case.
The sapphire caseback of
the Nomos Metro rose gold
33 shows the Nomos hand-
wound Alpha caliber
from suppliers and a demonstration of our innovation,” adds Ahrendt. “ We
produce all our own calibers, including the Alpha, our original hand-wound
movement, and six others, and our award-winning automatics. They are all
sleek, highly crafted movements that represent the highest standards of
engineering.”
The Nomos production facilities are spread across several buildings in
Glashütte and house technologies and capabilities equal to most tier-one
manufacturers. Nomos worked with the Technical University of Dresden and
invested 12 million Euros to develop its escapement and swing system,
critical core elements of any watch movement, released in 2014. This move
freed Nomos from relying on external suppliers, such as the monolithic
Swatch Group, for this important element.
The spotless facilities employ hundreds of skilled personnel who are
involved with all aspects of the watchmaking processes. CNC machining
equipment turns out base plates, which join over over 150 smaller parts made
of brass, steel and other materials that are manufactured, ground, polished
and finally assembled to pump out the region’s highest volume of products.
In 2015 Nomos released its 3.2 mm height DUW (Deutsche Uhrenwerke)
3001 Neomatik caliber automatic movement, an ultra-slim creation loyal to
the brand’s style aesthetic. This movement became the seed from which
the entire automatic line grew, and the basis for the highly impressive DUW
5201, found in the Tangomat GMT ($4,920) and Zurich World Time ($6,100)
models. Nomos’ current in-house produced calibers include the manual-
wound Alpha, found in the original Tangente, and the DUW 1001, DUW 2002,
DUW 4101, DUW 4301, and DUW 4401. Automatic movements include the
DUW 3001, DUW 5001, DOW 5101, DUW 5201, DUW 6101 Epsilon and Zeta.
90 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | FALL 2019
Collectively this impressive list of movements power thirteen families of
watches and 150 models.
Price is one of the key differentiators of the Nomos brand, and some-
thing that’s repeatedly referred to by company representatives at every level.
There is no one involved with the company that isn’t aware of the high level
of quality and craftsmanship being delivered.
“Unlike most companies, when we produce a limited edition model we
actually offer them at a lower price, like our ‘Century of Bauhaus’ Tangente
commemorative model,” says Langenbucher. “This market ethos also carries
throughout the entire brand line. Look at the Metro Rose Gold 33, for $7,200
or the Tangente Neomatik 41 with a rare ruthenium dial for $4,100. These are
incredible products for the money,” he adds.
Speaking of money, when asked why Nomos continues to remain
independent in spite of numerous offers from other companies, Ahrendt has
a thoughtful response.
“We produce a watch called the Lambda Rose Gold, reference 930. It’s a
fine, elegant men’s gold watch and if you look carefully at the balance cock
you will see the words inscribed by hand, ‘lovingly produced in Glashütte.’
We put that there because it’s fun to do so. To answer the question, we won’t
sell because we, and all the families that work with us, are just having too
much fun.”
And where will the company be in five years? “Sharing our vision of
quality and fun in many more markets internationally,” he adds. And if the
meteoric rise of Nomos over the past twenty-nine years is any indication of
future growth, this company may one day become a household name like
other well-known and loved international brands.