Above: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph in Rose gold, Polaris Automatic,
Polaris Chronograph WT Right: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956, inside the new Polaris
Memovox, features the striking mechanism with a gong, along with the central
seconds and instant-jump date-change system
We also wanted to improve the case, so we made it a bit more masculine. It has
better ergonomics compared to the original. In terms of finishing, we worked
on the surfaces so you have some polished angles, some brushed surfaces. The
finishing is very important for the final design. We made so many prototypes
until we found the correct finishing. We made a new case, but retained the
large opening of the dial.
What were some of the challenges with this
collection?
Eventually, one of the biggest challenges was to integrate the functions. Remember
that the original design was made around the central disc. You would, for instance,
take out the alarm and use that space for the chronograph.
That is why we decided to use just a two-counter chronograph. There aren’t
too many subdials on the watch as a result. It was all about trying to integrate
the functions while keeping the design and the graphics of that dial.
We now have five models: the original Memovox 42 mm size, with date, the
41mm automatic, the 42 mm chronograph, 44mm chronograph world time,
plus the Geographic (42mm).
We were also careful with the colors. The original was in black, but as we looked
at the vintage Memovox of the time, there were many blue dials, especially in
the 1960s, like the Snowdrop that we used two years ago for a Memovox special
edition. That is why we did blue dials, because not only are they popular today
but they were in the spirit of the 1960s and 1970s.
The two main issues were to integrate the functions, and to find the right
balance between the functions and the graphics and the case, for which we
tried many different designs. Look at the final case and remember that we tried
many different versions before settling on this one. This one is kind of classical
yet a bit more contemporary then the original.
Cases are all similar except for the alarm and for the date version, where we
kept the original caseback with the engraving. For all of the others we have open
cases to see the movements. Some collectors like to have the original casebacks,
so that is why we decided to keep that on the 42mm version.
78 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | FALL 2018
Was pricing an important factor?
Previously all of our sports watches were more expensive than our classic
watches, and we thought that was an issue. So we wanted to have a sports
watch at least at the same price as a classic watch with comparable functions.
Prices for this collection began at $6,500. The prices top off at $23,900 for
the rose gold chronograph with world time. The brushed finish on this rose
gold chronograph means it is not too shiny on the wrist. We expect the rose
gold to perform surprisingly well.
We are watchmakers, and we focus on the case and the dial and the
movements. But for Polaris we also focused on the straps, and we’ve
designed all new croco straps and others with different finishes. These
were made specifically for this collection–as was the brand new metal
bracelet. This adds interest to the new collection, in part also because they
are interchangeable, including the buckle. This all adds up to enhance the
experience with the watch.