COLLECTING
LIP NAUTI SKI
GALLET STAINLESS STEEL
the overall condition of the watch. But given the nature of vintage
watches, it’s often a tradeoff between condition and original parts.
Value-wise, it’s always better to opt for a watch with all original
parts in less than stellar condition than a watch in mint condition
with replacement parts. There are plenty collectors out there who
want a vintage watch to look as new as it did the day it came out of
the store—a difficult task indeed. There are some watches referred
to as “New Old Stock,” but unless it stayed in a dry and dark drawer
for five decades, a watch rarely lives up to this somewhat mislead-
ing label.
Then comes the common question of polished or not polished?
There are many serious watch collectors who do not want polished
watches. I personally do not polish watches unless it’s a contem-
porary piece. I’ve witnessed watches losing more than $10,000 in
value just because the lugs weren’t polished properly. Make no
mistake, polishing a watch takes great skill and your precious
vintage watches should only be trusted to properly trained
professionals who are up to the task.
Another component to pay close attention to is the dial of the
watch, especially the lume. Radium vs. tritium, untouched vs. re-
lumed, the color of the patina, and so on, are just a few things to
consider. Collectors today are sensitive to the type of luminescent
material on the watch as it plays a big part in the final price. higher prices than a multi-owner watch. Service history of the
watch also plays a part here, where work done by certified watch-
makers from brands like Omega or Breitling or CW21-certified
watchmakers enhance the credentials of the watch, thus driving up
the value of the piece in question.
Original boxes and papers add about ten percent to fifteen per-
cent of value to the watch– and I always appreciate a full set. For
example, a LeCoultre Futurematic bought in 1954 and kept by the
same person, serviced by an Omega certified watchmaker, and sold
as a full complete set with packaging and papers is a great
purchase in the vintage market. While its price may sit under
$2,500, it’s a collectible piece because of its provenance and
accompanying accessories.
To conclude, under the shadows of million-dollar watches, the
vintage watch market does offer a large variety of beautiful watch-
es at more affordable prices. You just have to be willing to do your
homework, be disciplined, and above all else, be patient. Eventually,
you’ll find that perfect vintage watch that speaks to your taste and
falls right into your budget range.
PROVENANCE Read more by him at blog.laurentfinewatches.com
or visit his store’s site at www.laurentfinewatches.com
Last, but certainly not least, is the importance of the provenance of
the watch. As expected, a one-owner vintage watch will command
62 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | FALL 2018
Laurent Martinez is the proprietor of Laurent Fine Watches
Greenwich, Connecticut.
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