iS Skin Source 2021 Q4 | Page 44

The Purpose and Pathways of Vitamin A Metabolism | by Deidre Ramdhanie
Diet and supplementation are ways to boost the Vitamin A reservoir in the skin and body .
Upon topical application of a retinoid , an enzymatic conversion takes place , morphing the retinoid from its original form into active retinoic acid . Retinoic acid then links to the retinoid receptor . Bonded together , the retinoic acid-receptor complex travels into the cell nucleus , initiating a DNA response . One retinoid is not necessarily better than another . However , a gentler retinoid is processed more slowly , and a stronger retinoid is processed faster . Each serves a desired purpose to varying demographics .
The outcome of the Vitamin A pathway is also dependent upon individual genetics and metabolic speed . Confusion and misinformation seem to center around the topic of tolerance . Individuals born with a genetically sensitive skin type and fair skin tone already struggle to retain water and enzymatic function within the skin barrier . This impairs the ability to properly metabolize a retinoid until barrier health is balanced and an adjustment period to active product usage is fulfilled .
What About Those Who Do Not Have Sensitive Skin And Still Experience Discomfort ?
Patients , clients , and consumers may assume they have had an allergic reaction , that a product does not work , or that it caused them to break out . More than likely , what they have experienced is a “ retinoid reaction .” This results from Vitamin A deficient skin with overly sensitized receptors , an inadequate amount of retinoid receptors ( as progressively happens with aging ), or premature use of a retinoid that is too active . The skin can become irritated , itchy , red , or develop bumps . With respect to first-time retinoid use and first-time use of pharmaceutical-grade skincare products in general , slow and steady wins the race .
The best practice is for individuals to closely follow a regimen of basic cleansing , exfoliating , and hydrating habits . This should allow the skin to be more tolerant of retinoids , and the individual can then easily tolerate a treatment serum or complex containing retinoid esters . Once acclimated , the skin is then ready for retinol , the alcohol form . For long-term results , it is often advisable to use treatment products containing esters and / or a non-keratolytic retinol for comfortable daily use .
Prescriptive strength Vitamin A topicals should only be prescribed when all else fails to treat dominant and
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