designed for licensed clinicians . Let us explore in more detail the difference between cosmetic and medical microneedling .
Cosmetic needling uses short needles ( less than . 5 mm long ) to fractionally stimulate the epidermis and upper dermis , the skin ’ s outer layers . Cosmetic needling can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines but may not be optimal for the treatment of acne scars or other deeper scar types , which may require deeper penetration to mechanically break up existing fibrous scar tissue .
Because cosmetic needling is less aggressive than medical microneedling , healing time and associated risks are lower . Treatments can be completed with lighter topical numbing creams or without any numbing for pregnant or lactating clients . Healing time is generally 48-72 hours , and a wider base of clients are eligible for treatment , including immune suppressed clients , people with rosacea , or those taking blood thinners with scars less than six months old . There is little to no risk of skin pigment changes or facial fat atrophy , and infection is rare .
Medical needling uses longer needles (. 5 mm and longer ) to stimulate the dermis . The longer needles ( up to 3.0 mm ) reach the deep dermis , making it possible to treat acne and other scars by breaking up scar tissue and inducing skin remodeling . Medical needling is more aggressive than cosmetic microneedling and requires a medical grade topical numbing cream to minimize discomfort . Medical needling is overseen by a licensed clinician and is not recommended for at-home use .
State regulations vary in terms of the scope of medical personnel and the use of both cosmetic and medical microneedling devices . It is imperative that clinicians overseeing the care of patients become intimately familiar with their state and local regulations prior to performing microneedling procedures or delegating others to do so .
Microneedling procedures may vary somewhat in terms of skin preparation , number of passes , post-care regimen , etc . This deeper account will discuss general technique , although every clinician has his or her own approach based on training and practice habits .
Microneedling is a relatively straightforward office-based procedure typically lasting 10 to 20 minutes , depending on the area being treated . The patient must be offered informed consent prior to the procedure that explains the anticipated outcomes , risks versus benefits , expected sequelae , and potential for multiple treatments . Additionally , contraindications must be addressed ; these include active acne , herpes labialis , or any other local infection in the treatment area . Other contraindications may be warts , moderate to severe chronic skin diseases , such as eczema and psoriasis , blood dyscrasias , anticoagulant therapy , severe keloid history , and chemo / radiotherapy , to name a few .
The theory behind the mechanism is that the trauma generated by needle penetration in the skin induces regeneration of the dermis .