South Georgia is renowned for its unspoiled scenery and abundant wildlife . In addition to reindeer , petrels and albatrosses are whales , penguins , rats and seals . The King Penguins were moulting and standing together in large groups on the beaches , waiting to get new feathers before getting back in the water to find food . The terns were aggressively defending their nests and attempting to make holes in our skulls . The Elephant seals were also moulting , and lying in groups on the hill side , just above the beach . In the snowy weather , their pungent smell was mixed with steam coming off their enormous bodies . I somehow lost the desire to hug one of them . The Fur Seals were very abundant and there were many mums feeding their puppies . On this beautiful island the Fur Seals appear to live off fish and the lower leg parts of unassuming visitors . Through so far unexplained sensing mechanisms , the Fur Seals were able to tell apart male from female visitor , and in gangs were attacking the female researchers . The beleaguered members of the research team returned shaken to the James Clark Ross , and the purchases in the second post office were mainly undertaken by the male researchers . This situation is clearly unsustainable , and unless the Fur seal population is better trained , I foresee the second post office on South Georgia to be threatened with closure shortly .
As for tonight , I will surely sleep with my earplugs firmly inserted .
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