FOOD + DRINK
THE GLASS HOUSE destination dining with a local feel
THE TERM‘ DESTINATION RESTAURANT’ HAS BECOME A BIT OF A BUZZWORD. I wouldn’ t consider any restaurant that I can reach within minutes a‘ destination’ eatery no matter how many hours I can spend there moving from bar to dinner and back to drinks. For some, a destination restaurant is somewhere that offers an all-evening experience, for me, it’ s about how far you’ re willing to travel for a great meal. Leaving the familiar and travelling a few miles for fantastic food is not a chore, it’ s exciting and absolutely worth doing. Especially if your destination is The Glass House Restaurant at Wickwoods Country Club, Hotel & Spa. BY POLLY HUMPHRIS
I’ d heard enthusiastic rumblings about The Glass House before I visited. Like a phoenix resurrected from the ashes, Wickwoods had been all but derelict back in 2010, until it was bought back and restored to its former glory by previous owner, Lee Goossens. Careful consideration has been made to ensure that The Glass House has an identity in its own right, however, and although it shares a postcode with its adjoining health and fitness facilities, the fact that it has a personality all of its own is evident from the minute you step through the doors.
The look and feel of the restaurant has a surprising edge – it’ s partly very stylish as evinced by the contemporary lighting( think chandeliers and young potted orange trees draped with fairy lights); young, eager staff; and, of course, the fact that it’ s set in an orangery, so has a gorgeous sloping glass roof through which you can stargaze. On the other hand, the restaurant’ s bucolic surrounds lend it a country feel. By the blissful lack of traffic noise alone you can tell you’ re not in a built up area, which makes The Glass House feel like a well-kept secret. A sanctuary in which you’ re encouraged to relax and really relish the experience.
Since The Glass House opened in early 2014, the modern European menu has been
constantly refreshed and bettered to reflect head chef, Vincent Fayat’ s commitment to using local, seasonal produce. I started with sweet scallops sat on a bed of silky celeriac puree and balanced by a sparing amount of deep red wine sauce; a new combination for me and one that really works. The honey roast pigeon with smoked bacon and puy lentils tasted like a comforting earthy stew, but managed to look refined, and, if game is your thing, catch the rich roasted pheasant with chestnuts while you can.
The dish of the day for me though was the steak. Thick cut, rare as ordered, and seared properly with a strong layer of seasoning and a hint of crispy fat on the outside, the inside cut like butter; it was so good I nearly forgot to eat my potato dauphinoise.
Unstuffy and with an upbeat and lively atmosphere, The Glass House may serve finedining standard food, but it isn’ t a fine dining restaurant; you’ re as welcome to have a pint with your dinner as you are( like me, always) a glass of Nyetimber Rosé and because you’ ve travelled a few extra miles to get there, it feels more special than a normal night out. It’ s time to let this well-kept secret out of the bag – a destination restaurant is about how far you’ re willing to travel for the food, and I’ d have travelled a lot further for mine.
The Glass House Wickwoods Shaves Wood Ln Albourne Hassocks BN6 9DY
01273 857567 www. wickwoods. co. uk / glasshouse
WickwoodsClub WickwoodsGlassHouse
38