insideSUSSEX Magazine Issue 19 - September 2016 | Page 36

FOOD+DRINK

The Leconfield
at Petworth

BY SAMANTHA READY

Set in the quaint, historic town of Petworth, this restaurant bar in the heart of the village is
a bit of an enigma. Head chef, Paul Welburn, who took the helm in October, is the first to
acknowledge that people don’t quite know what to expect when they step over the threshold
- be prepared for your expectations to be truly exceeded at...The Leconfield.

While the exterior to this award-winning restaurant
is all oldey-worldy, higgledy-piggledy, rustic charm
- as you would expect in a 200-year-old building the interior dining room is all about classic, cleanlined sophistication. Cool walls, rich wood tables
and leather tub chairs lead to a secluded outdoor
terrace, where white, wrought-iron tables and
chairs beneath pale wood and parasols offer the
perfect space for alfresco dining, or pre-dinner
drinks, as well as a sneak peek into the kitchen
through the square outdoor pass.
Settled on the terrace with a glass of
Blackdown Sussex vodka and Fever-Tree
lemonade, I was soon relaxed and comfortable,
taking in the seamless service and engrossed
in the freshly printed menu, which offers
select à la carte choices determined by local
seasonal produce, and a tasting menu that
changes daily. Now, I believe that a sign of how
good a dining experience is to come can be
revealed by an amuse bouche, canapés and
the bread. The attention to detail and thought
that goes into the unassuming beginning of
your meal can be a great precursor as to what
is to follow, and the Leconfield delivered (and
then some!) with its beetroot meringue and
coronation chicken canapés alongside soda
and honey and spelt breads.
Tastebuds tantalised and expectations growing
we were ready to let the evening begin!
Our starters came quickly served in
earthenware bowls; my guest’s pink cubes
of gin-infused trout offered a beautifully fresh
looking and tasting dish with dill mayo and the

‘tonic’ element provided through an inspired
lemonade-like jelly. My intriguing ‘crispy pig’
delivered two large, crisp croquettes full of
delicately seasoned shredded pork - the
combination of this with fresh apple batons,
shallot and burnt apple sauce was delicious.
It takes a confident kitchen that believes in the
strength of its ingredients and skill to deliver
simply a fillet of beef on a plate for a main
course! But, this was not ‘just’ a fillet of beef,
this was a perfectly cooked, flavoursome
slab of prime beef swiftly accompanied by
a surprisingly light sauce of whipped herb
bearnaise and by far the best hand-cut chips
we’d eaten for some time. My guest was
also swayed by the recommended ‘carrots
& carraway’ side and promptly ate the whole
bowl. While my dish of Hardwick lamb rump
served with light mayo, fresh mint and parsley,
broad beans and peas more than fulfilled the
flavour and taste quota, by far the star of the
show was the confit shoulder - the delicious
nugget of lamb brought the whole dish
together and the rich lamb gravy was great
with those chips too!
Keen to try more, we were presented with
the ‘BFG’ dessert served with compressed
and raw strawberries. A light affair of summer
flavours, fresh berries, elderflower and hints
of lemon via cheesecake, sorbet (divine!) and
mousse (even better!), the BFG was a story on
the plate as chocolate soil gave way to a cherry
sorbet; milk chocolate creameux; and dark,
aerated chocolate cubes with pecan puree and
black cherries - it was as good as it sounds.

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From the first taste of meringue to the last
mouthful of white chocolate fudge petit
fours, every bite was a triumph and clearly
demonstrated head chef, Paul and his team’s
commitment to fresh local produce and
storytelling food. At The Leconfield, it's not
only about seriously great food, but also about
seriously great service, where efficient, friendly
staff combi