insideKENT Magazine January 2023 - Issue 129 | Page 101

The Althoff Collection , to which St James ’ s Hotel and Club belongs with just five other hotels , is known for its exceptionally high standards and painstaking commitment to four key factors : cuisine , architecture , design and service . While the historical façade of the building remains beautifully intact with all the ornate cornicing one would expect from the era , beyond the hotel ’ s striking red and white exterior you ’ ll find decadent grown-up glitz and a revamped and restored interior . Wood-panelled walls , natural stone polished to a perfect shine , elegant sculptures , and a selection of impressionist , expressionist and Cubist paintings from the Rosenstein collection dress the walls ; it is understated and exquisite .
About the mischievous touch I mentioned ; I think this requires a further explanation . In no way is the St James ’ s a den of impropriety , in fact it ’ s quite the opposite , but the latest addition to the hotel ’ s social scene – 1857 The Bar – has a chic after-dark feel . A little like a speakeasy , in that it ’ s discreet , effortlessly cool and decked out with dark wood , gold and lowlevel lighting , not only is it relaxing and wonderfully quiet thanks to a distinct lack of passers-by , but it ’ s also London ’ s very first Port destination . This simple but intriguing niche paired with a legendary wine list makes for a perfect spot to relaxing and enjoy a new drink ; try the Port Sour , which is made with specially prepared Graham ' s Blend Series No . 5 and mixed with egg white and lemon ; it ’ s a game-changer .
Continuing with the exciting sense of occasion that pervades a stay here , there is something incredibly special about the jewel in St James ’ s crown : William
Drabble ’ s Michelin-starred restaurant , Seven Park Place . The setting of just nine tables alone is enough to make anyone that eats here feel exceptionally lucky , and the food is nothing short of spectacular . The dining room itself is unfussy : crisp white tablecloths , plush carpets , slate grey furniture and flecks of mauve against more classic European artwork , because of course the star of the show is Drabble ’ s faultless food .
Opting for the seven-course gourmand menu of French cuisine made with the very best locally sourced British ingredients , we ate plump hand-dived scallop with a sweet salsify gratin that hit notes of oyster ; a savoury boudin of buttery smooth Dorset snails ; and an unforgettable native lobster tail that was tangy and lean with a subtle sweetness and served alongside silky smooth cauliflower and shavings of black truffle . A superb John Dory dish with fresh , slightly tart hits of celeriac and apple , and the richness of mussels and chive followed , before an exceptional plate of Rhug Estate organic lamb served three ways – herbencased , a delicate chop and a rib . As delicious as it was imaginative , it was packed with deep , meaty flavour and elevated by garlic , thyme and turnip . Drabble ’ s menu is the very essence of indulgent neoclassical cookery ; it ’ s masterful .
As I hope is evinced , ‘ self-care ’ flows from every element of a stay here , and the rooms and suites of course continue the theme . The Terrace Suite , a generous 57 metres-squared , feels like a slice of majesty ; a spacious separate bedroom with king-size bed and walk-in closet joins a beautiful living space
bedecked with a fireplace , antique furniture in neutral shades and pops of pastel pink , classic sculptures , beautiful paintings and objet d ' art . So comfortable and so luxurious , it also has access to a private terrace , but it was on the plush sofa that I sat and partook in a fascinating two-hour life-coaching session . Another key component of their holistic selfcare stay , of course I cannot discuss the finer personal points , but put it this way , I didn ’ t know I needed it , but I definitely did , and I took away some truly life-changing advice .
And so to bed . Reading my complimentary copy of Dr Julie Smith ’ s eye-opening book of life skills , Why Has Nobody Told Me This Before . A mere stone ’ s throw from the bright lights of The Ritz , St James ’ s Hotel and Club may well be tucked away off an unassuming side street , but nothing about this hotel – and indeed their genius self-care stay package – is unassuming . It ’ s flawless from top to toe , with impeccable service ( special thanks to the restaurant dream trio of Lara , Luca and sommelier Livio for being sensational ) and a wonderfully comforting sense of calm that lifts luxury to a whole new level .
St James ' s Hotel & Club Mayfair 7-8 Park Place London SW1A 1LS 020 7316 1600 www . stjameshotelandclub . com
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