insideKENT Magazine Issue 96 - March 2020 | Page 72

FOOD+DRINK
MEET THE CHEF:
ALLISTER BARSBY,
HIDE AND FOX, SALTWOOD NR HYTHE
What led you to becoming a chef?
At 14 years of age I got a job washing pots at Wheelers
Oyster Bar in Whitstable, this was my first
introduction into a kitchen and initially I didn't like
it... My dad made me continue to work there and
I began to really enjoy it. I started making pastry,
hollandaise sauce and basic desserts. When I was in
6th form at school we had to choose somewhere for
three days work experience, so I chose Michelin-
starred Read's Restaurant in Faversham. I fell in
love with the kitchen then and there, and was offered
a full time job for when I finished my A-levels.
However, I was restless and left school two weeks
later to begin my career in the kitchen!
Where did you train?
I didn't go to college, Read's was my college really.
I learnt all the basics very well there. It was Michelin
starred and classic French based cuisine, so it was
an amazing place to start. The kitchen garden there
is incredible, so also learning that respect for the
ingredients came from my time at Read's.
Where have you worked before
Hide and Fox?
After I spent two years at Read's I knew I wanted
to push myself to the next level! Michael Caines had
just opened ABode in Canterbury so we went for
lunch with the Reads team. I loved the food (I think
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MC was cooking too), so I did some research on
Gidleigh Park (2 Michelin starred) in Devon and
applied for a three-day work experience. I was
accepted and drove down the following week.
Gidleigh Park was a crazy busy and tough kitchen,
but I really enjoyed that environment and was offered
a job at the end of my 'Stage'. I moved down to
Devon the following month. I spent 3 years there
working on every section, then MC offered me sous
chef at The Bath Priory which he had just taken
over. I spent two years in Bath and helped to gain
a Michelin star. I was asked back to Gidleigh as head
chef, and I was there for a further three years where
we maintained 2 Michelin stars and regained 5
Rosettes, as well as earning the No.1 spot on the
Times Food List. I knew I wanted to do my own
thing after nearly 8 years with Michael Caines so I
was offered a job at a hotel in Pembrokeshire called
Grove of Narberth. It is a beautiful hotel with very
ambitious owners and was a great experience for
me opening a second restaurant on site and
developing my own style.
Why Kent?
I was born and bred in Kent. It seemed the natural
next step for me after spending nearly twelve years
away from home. I met Alice in Pembrokeshire who
had also spent three years with the same company;
she was F&B manager and was also Restaurant
Manager at The Bath Priory before then, so it felt
right for us to pursue our own venture.
Tell us about the dishes and menu you have
created at Hide and Fox?
I think as business owners we have a responsibility
to be mindful of the suppliers and produce we are
using. So we are trying where possible to buy as local
as we can, and to buy as sustainable as we can. My
food is quite simple, I concentrate on building layers
of flavour to keep the palette interested throughout
the meal. I use acidity where appropriate for this
same reason. We wanted to keep our menu small
but thoughtful, with an emphasis on the great produce
Kent has to offer.
What is your signature/favourite dish?
My favourite dish on our menu right now is the
mackerel. Our supplier (Boathouse Fisheries) is
getting us some huge 500-700g mackerel right now
which have a higher fat content than the smaller
fish. We cure the fillets first, char them to give that
BBQ flavour, and serve with kohlrabi soused with
saffron, avocado puree, umami rich anchovy
mayonnaise, a sweet and sour lime gastric, and sliced
radish. It's fresh and full of flavour!
What is your guilty pleasure?
I do love a good cheese burger! And wine gums....
www.hideandfox.co.uk