insideKENT Magazine Issue 95 - February 2020 | Page 126

LONDON
SEVEN PARK PLACE CONT.
They were followed almost immediately by our
amuse bouche. The aromatic scents of smoked fish
filled our senses, yet the haddock and potato soup
was delicate, light, warming, and moorish - and
swiftly devoured.
Just as we were mooting that we could have just
eaten that and been happy our starters arrived and
we backtracked quicker than you could say hand-
dived scallops. Fresh from Scotland, the perfectly
seared scallops nestled on a rich celeriac and apple
puree, with acidity from the pickled slices of apple
and celeriac perfectly cutting through the sweetness.
Whilst my guest was in awe of his poached tail of
Dorset Blue lobster, the delicate meaty morsel came
with cauliflower puree, added texture from charred
cauliflower florets and was finished with the decadent
richness of lobster butter sauce and Perigord truffle.
Both expertly paired with our first wines of the
evening; my guest’s Pouilly-Fuissé, Vieilles Vignes
Domaine Jacques Saumaize, 2018; and my Kamptal,
Strass, Grüner Veltliner, Allram, 2017.
For his main course, my guest continued his from
the sea theme with his waiter-recommended grilled
South Coast sea bass. The delicate flakes of line-
caught fillet with its crispy skin were elevated with
Jerusalem artichokes, parsley puree, wild mushrooms,
and a rich red wine and tarragon jus. This time
matched with the Verduno, Basadone, Castello di
Verduno, 2017. Although the envious looks across
the table as my dish arrived (and was devoured),
meant my ox cheek won main of the evening. Slow
cooked in Madeira, the sticky-glazed, melt in the
mouth beef, with the comforting, and winter
appropriate, flavours of wild mushrooms, onions
and bacon, was simply heaven on a plate. Especially
when washed down with a fruity glass of Saint-
Joseph, Offerus J.L Chave, 2016.
With just enough respite, we were presented with
our pre-dessert and palate cleanser of white chocolate
panna cotta and grapefruit sorbet. We scraped the
tiny curved glass dish as much as possible to devour
every morsel, only relinquishing them in the
knowledge that our desserts proper were enroute…
Inspired by a neighbouring table, my guest opted
for the sweet passion fruit soufflé offset with its bitter
dark chocolate pouring sauce and a glass of Uroulat
Jurançon, 2017.
Whilst my own inspired choice was the toffee apple.
Cutting through the white chocolate and toffee shell
of the perfectly formed and glistening apple, revealed
a smooth, sweet and fresh apple mousse, apple pieces
and chocolate crumb, accompanied by the Vouvray,
Domaine Huet, Le Mont Moelleux, France 1989 -
it was just devine!
Writing off our new year’s resolutions to eat less, we
finished off the entire platter of petit fours for good
measure - the passionfruit jelly, caramel fudge, lime
and milk chocolate, dark chocolate and whisky truffle,
blood orange macaron, nougat, and almond cake
with blueberry all too good to resist.
Leaving clutching Drabble’s signature, ribbon-tied,
mini bag of coconut marshmallow we were once
again in awe of Seven Park Place.
Here’s to its next decade of culinary greatness!
Seven Park Place by William Drabble
www.stjameshotelandclub.com/en/restau
rant-seven-park-place
SevenParkPlace
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