insideKENT Magazine Issue 95 - February 2020 | Page 72

FOOD+DRINK
BRINGING A CLEAR PASSION FOR QUALITY INGREDIENTS, GENUINE
ENTHUSIASM FOR ITS DISHES, AND A HEAVY DO SE OF CHARM TO THE
VILLAGE, THE insid e K EN T TEAM DINE OUT AT
THE SQUARE FISH CAFE
IN THE HEART OF THE BEAUTIFUL LITTLE MARKET VILLAGE OF LENHAM, MARINO MICHAELAS’
TRADITIONAL FISH AND CHIP SHOP HAS BEEN A PART OF THE COMMUNITY FOR OVER 20 YEARS.
DRIVEN WITH PASSION AND A HEAP OF VISION, MARINO TOOK A FURTHER LEAP, TRANSFORMING
THE ADJACENT, RUN-DOWN CAR GARAGE INTO THE CONTEMPORARY AND WELCOMING THE
SQUARE FISH CAFE. BY ANNA LOCKYER
Perfectly positioned, in the centre of the medieval
square, owner, Marino has created a modern, relaxed
dining experience, alongside his busy chippy! There
is a fresh clean look inside the dining room; high
vaulted light-oak beamed ceilings, flooded with light
from the floor to ceiling windows and the pretty
lights strung above the restaurant, and plenty of
indoor and outdoor seating; with soft grey padded
benches as well as wooden chairs set around the
tables, which can be set for intimate tables of two or
larger party size groups, all of whom can also benefit
from the wall of fine wines behind the bar.
At the helm is head chef Fabien, who has spent 26
years in the industry and is also evidently passionate,
devising a naturally fish-dominated menu, inspired
by family recipes, full of simple, yet delectable, dishes.
With the lunchtime menu there’s no need to
break the bank, with the 2 or 3 course set menu
costing just £15 or £20 respectively. There is also
the option to choose from the main menu too. I
loved knowing that all the dishes on the menu were
locally sourced, and Fabien certainly knew what he
was talking about, coming from a family of fishermen
in France. My party and I started with calamari; the
lightly dusted, garlic infused squid, was full of flavour
and the perfect start to give us a taste of what was
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to come! Whilst the scallop served in a mini brioche
bun with pancetta, was perfectly seared with a delicate
buttery taste.
Next up our mains arrived, and they did not
disappoint! A huge range of dishes chosen, the
traditional fish and chips (someone had too!) was a
generous portion and perfectly battered. The salmon
teriyaki had the whole tables’ tastes buds ready for
a feast - whilst giving the rest of the table food
envy! Served on a bed of pearl barley and spinach
risotto, a side that was new to me but did not
disappoint, Fabien explained this was a really healthy
and simple alternative to rice and honestly was far
more flavoursome.
We couldn’t visit and not order the ‘Chef’s Special’.
The linguine with pan-seared scallops, wild
mushrooms and brandy sauce, was flawlessly put
together, smooth and flavoursome. There is also the
Catch of the Day choice, well two of them actually,
both offering a perfect flavour combination; with
the bed of creamy chive mash complimenting the
locally-sourced Dover Sole, drizzled in a baby
spinach, wild mushroom and pancetta sauce. And
the lighter, yet still delicious option - if you are trying
to lose those Christmas calories, loin of cod, polenta
and courgetti in a tomato and caper sauce.
We hadn’t planned on dessert but Fabien handed
us the menus and gave us the look, and the
explanation that the pastry dish was his father’s
recipe.... With little persuasion, the spoons were laid
and desserts on their way! This was not something
we regretted, the apple tart tatin (thank you Fabien’s
dad) was a lushness of golden puff pastry and apple
that literally melted on the tongue, lets just say it
didn't last long! Next up warm chocolate brownie
with soft salted caramel chunks, perfectly combined
with smooth vanilla ice cream, meant one thing,
empty plates all round.
Offering a genuine warm and friendly service along
with Marino and Fabien’s experience and evident
passion, The Square Fish Cafe is a true village asset.
The Square Fish Cafe
The Square
Lenham
Maidstone
ME17 2PH
01622 858268
thesquarefishcafe