insideKENT Magazine issue 94 - January2020 | Page 82

FOOD+DRINK DISCOVER INTIMATE, RELAXED AND INSPIRED FINE DINING IN A WARM, CHARMING AND UNPRETENTIOUS SETTING THACKERAY’S HOUSED WITHIN THE OLDEST BUILDING IN TUNBRIDGE WELLS, THACKERAY’S, NAMED AFTER ITS NINETEENTH CENTURY OWNER ENGLISH NOVELIST WILLIAM MAKEPEACE THACKERAY, SITS IN A GRADE II LISTED BUILDING, BUILT AROUND 1660, WHICH OFFERS PLENTY OF HISTORY, CHARM AND CHARACTER, AS WELL AS A TRUE WARM WELCOME FROM THE DEDICATED TEAM AT ITS HELM. BY SAMANTHA READY The restaurant, which celebrated its 18th anniversary in November, was the first in renown chef Richard Phillips’ Kent-based, award-winning restaurant portfolio. It is beautifully unique; white painted tiles, deep black framed windows and sloped ceilings, with slightly wonky stairways that add to the charm. Inside, the elegant décor and low ceilings create a warm and intimate ambiance to the dining rooms, which are split into two areas on the ground floor as well as upstairs rooms for private dining or celebratory parties. My guests and I were welcomed like old friends by front of house manager Gary, and we were delighted to be sat in our favourite spot, the spacious bay 82 window table, perfectly placed to offer views across the dining room, out to the inviting outside bar and terrace below, and to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail. We highly recommend the citrus and sweet notes of the Toffee Apple Cosmo (citrus vodka, butterscotch and apple schnapps and apple presse), which we devoured, alongside the table snacks of butternut and sage soup and heavenly mac and cheese bites, and the bread basket, with its moorish whipped marmite butter, whilst perusing the seasonal menu choices. The menus are purposefully varied to avoid exclusivity and include a daily set lunch menu, indulgent chef’s tasting menu created to showcase the knowledge, passion and creativity of head chef Patrick Hill, and taste-bud tempting á la carte options from which our evening’s dishes were chosen. Our starters delivered beautifully presented and wonderfully tasting dishes; the rich smoothness of the foie gras parfait, with roast concorde pears, pear gel, confit duck leg and moorish truffle popcorn; the perfectly roasted diver-caught scallops, with baby globe artichoke and crushed violet potato, and added texture from toasted hazelnuts and praline; and the confit of Loch Duart salmon, served with smoked aubergine caviar, apricot, enoki mushroom, heritage radish, and surrounded by a rich soy and mushroom broth.