insideKENT Magazine Issue 92 - November 2019 | Page 143

TOM KEMBLE AT
The Pass
SOUTH LODGE’S AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANT ELEVATES THE ‘CHEF’S TABLE’ CONCEPT
WITH AN INTIMATE 28 COVER CULINARY EXPERIENCE WHICH BRINGS DINERS INTO THE DRAMA
AT THE HEART OF THE KITCHEN.
Catching a glimpse of the etched glass
entrance way declaring Tom Kemble
as the current head chef at The Pass,
(he took the reigns in January), is
enough to build ample excitement
amongst visiting diners lucky enough
to have secured one of the just twenty
eight seats in this bijou dining room.
The high tables and stools are
positioned, mainly in twos, to offer an
unrivalled dining experience with
views straight into the kitchen.
Watching the kitchen team work
their magic to transform seasonal
ingredients into an array of
showstopping, beautifully presented
dishes, designed by Kemble, adds a
new dynamic to dining out. Suffice to
say it’s one that thoroughly whets the
appetite first!
Cooking professionally for over a
decade, Kemble’s own approach as
been informed by his experiences in
award-winning, ingredient-driven,
fine-dining kitchens. Beginning his
career at Chapter 2 in Blackheath, he
furthered his skills at Foliage, the one-
Michelin-starred restaurant at the
Madarin Oriental in London; before
moving to the newly opened Hedone
restaurant which was also awarded a
coveted star. He then worked under
Magnus Nilsson at his Swedish
destination restaurant, Faviken, before
becoming head chef at Bonhams
Restaurant, Mayfair in 2014,
achieving a Michelin star within seven
months of opening!
Taking the helm at The Pass affords
the perfect place to further evolve his
cuisine, driven by a focus on “seasonal,
high-quality, produce-led cooking”.
As well as working with a supplier
network established over the last five
years, Kemble has also built new
relationships with local suppliers and
utilises the onsite vegetable garden.
His inspired approach to fresh produce
and his kitchen heritage was evident
in our exquisite seven-course tasting
menu with expertly paired wine.
We began our culinary journey with
potentially our favourite appetiser
ever! Alongside the tastebud
temptations of waiver thin cracker
with glazed eel and apple; and the
bite-sized compressed watermelon
with parmesan shavings; came the
glorious, lightly spiced, chilli-kicked,
fried chicken. Frankly, I could have
had plate after plate of this alone
and still left happy! Not only devine
but also a great introduction to
simple dishes elevated to inspired fine
dining heights with a refined touch
and punch of flavour.
From the first dish of silken tofu with
ginger verjus, tomato and sesame; to
the Cornish crab (shellfish free for me!)
with a moorish melon gazpacho, fresh
almonds and pickled dulse; to the
intricacy of the tempura courgette flower; where layers of heat hit the palette
from a kick of chilli and spice to then be offset by the delicate, smoked garlic
infused, aubergine, minted anchovy and fresh subtle notes from the fresh, creamy,
Puglia burrata; my guest and I were impressed time and time again.
And then came the duck! Delivered personally by the chef, as is the norm for at
least one of your courses at The Pass, the honey and soy glazed duck, seared
over open coals, was a perfect sticky taste sensation. Shaved liver dissolved into
the plate and onto the tongue with textures from turnip and charcoal grilled
endive, finished with a sweet rich cherry ketchup - just wow.
Waylaid by the temptation of the cheese trolley my guest’s cheese plate, a
delightful selection of Neal’s Yard’s finest, afforded me a little respite before the
‘pre-dessert’ (which I might just make a thing everywhere from now on!) arrived.
Smooth buttermilk panna cotta, fresh raspberries, pistachio crumb and a lime
zest pistachio sorbet was the delicate flavour of summer on a plate. This was
followed up by ‘dessert’ the rich, dark, sweet 72% Madagascan chocolate tarte
delivering an assault of pudding flavour with notes of miso and sharp mint from
the fresh ice-cream.
Coffee with a lemon and tarragon macaron was the perfect finish to an evening
of kitchen theatrics, ingredient mastery, and taste sensation.
Dinner here is a must and I expect his next star to follow.
Tom Kemble at The Pass
Brighton Road
Lower Beeding
Horsham
RH13 6PS
www.exclusive.co.uk/south-lodge/restaurants-bars/the-pass
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