insideKENT Magazine Issue 87 - June 2019 | Page 97

FOOD+DRINK FOR THE LOVE OF COD! KENT’S VERY BEST FISH AND CHIPS... WHO DOESN’T LOVE A GOOD PORTION OF PROPER FISH AND CHIPS? WHETHER YOU DOUSE THE WHOLE LOT IN SALT AND VINEGAR, OR PREFER TO ADD TANGY TARTAR SAUCE OR A CLASSIC DOLLOP OF KETCHUP TO PROCEEDINGS, THE OUTCOME IS ALWAYS COMFORTING AND DELICIOUS. REGARDLESS OF HOW YOU CHOOSE TO EAT THE TRADITIONAL TREAT THERE IS SOMETHING UNBEATABLE ABOUT PROPER CHIP SHOP CHIPS WITH THEIR PIPING HOT FLUFFY CENTRES ACCOMPANIED BY A BIG PIECE OF JUICY FISH IN CRISPY BATTER. Winston Churchill called fish and chips ‘the good companions’ and he wasn’t wrong. These two elements go together so well that it might come as something of a surprise to discover that the dish as we know and love it today only came into being in the 1860s. In Britain in the mid-1800s, Jewish refugees arrived and brought with them some delicacies including fried fish, which was sold by street sellers who hung large trays around their necks. Usually it was sold with some bread or perhaps a baked potato on the side; no chips...yet. In fact, ironically, when chips were created in France or Belgium in the 1850s, it was as a substitute for fish. The rivers froze, so no fish could be caught and housewives used the only thing they had – potatoes. They cut them into fish shapes and fried them, serving them up as an alternative. This idea struck businessman John Lees as a good one and in 1863, impressed by the resourceful of the fried fish sellers and having enjoyed the fried potato shapes in France, he felt that the two items might just marry well together. It turned out to be an excellent idea. He began selling fish and chips in a market in Mossley, Lancashire, and no one ever looked back with the dish fast becoming one of the most popular up and down the country. Is this story true? Perhaps, and perhaps not. An alternative fishy tale is that it was Joseph Malin, a Jewish immigrant, who opened the first bonafide fish and chip shop in London’s East End in around 1860. Either way, whoever came up with the idea, or whether both men had the idea at the same time and went to work at different ends of the country, the point is that everyone adored fish and chips right from the start, so much so that during World War II the government actually went out of its way to ensure that this food favourite was not rationed. Since it’s National Fish and Chip Day on 2nd June, and since Kent – as ever – boasts some of the most glorious of fish and chip shops you’re likely to come into contact with, insideKENT decided it was time to let everyone know about them. 97