insideKENT Magazine Issue 85 - April 2019 | Page 134

GETAWAYS THE LANGHAM, L O N D O N CONT. Roux at the Landau ROUX AT THE LANDAU IS THE LANGHAM, LONDON’S SHOWCASE RESTAURANT AND NAMESAKE OFFERING OF THE ACCLAIMED FATHER/SON TEAM ALBERT ROUX OBE AND MICHEL ROUX JR. Recently refurbished to create a more informal fine dining concept, the stunning curved dining room – at one end, a majestic floor-to-ceiling wood-panelled wall; the other, iconic views through large picture windows – is dominated by the centrally positioned, sleek cold counter, showcasing the ‘from the ice’ seafood menu. The whole space is a statement of contemporary yet traditional decor that pays homage to the Landau carriage and its equine connection. There are subtle touches, such as the leather straps on the banquet seating and the waiting staff’s new uniforms; to the more obvious, like the opposing horses that sit proudly above the four imposing entranceways, and on the menu – a well-conceived showcase of French and European dishes produced by Head Chef Nicolas Pasquier, Executive Pastry Chef Andrew Gravett and the passionate kitchen team overseen by Michel Roux Jr. Having made short work of the oozing gruyere cheese amuse bouche, my guest opted for the crisp hen egg, parmesan foam, black truffle and smoked duck to start – a demonstration in taste and presentation as he carefully worked through the textures and tastes of the dish. 134 I make it an unwritten rule never to read other reviews before conducting my own, but such was the recognition of the beurre blanc that the rave reviews were hard to miss, so obviously there was only one starter choice for me: the XL Orkney scallop with Ivy House farm beurre blanc and Oscietra caviar, and it was amazing, meeting every expectation and then some! The delicately seared scallop, divine rich buttery sauce offset by the decadent caviar made for a dish I could eat again and again! Next came my guest’s wild sea bass – a perfectly seared and swiftly devoured fillet accompanied by fresh, delicate lobster ravioli and rich Château- Chalon sauce; whilst I had the pleasure of enjoying the Buccleuch beef fillet, simply presented, with a Roscoff onion, Jerusalem artichoke and ‘Bercy’ sauce; a masterpiece in taste and technique. Roux at the Landau 1C Portland PLace London, W1B 1JA www.rouxatthelandau.com rouxlandau We ended our meal with the heady delights of the pecan praline tart, ice cream and maple; and the sublime Manjari moelleux with cardamom ice cream and caramel cloud. Dessert was indeed the icing on the Roux cake. rouxlandau rouxlandau