GETAWAYS
Exquisite combinations at Brighton’ s
PIKE & PINE
ONE THING THAT BRIGHTON DOES SO VERY WELL IS OOZE COOLNESS, ALTHOUGH ITS LAID-BACK ZEST FOR LIFE UNDERPINS A LESS THAN MODEST DEMAND FOR GREATNESS THAT IS NEVER MORE EVIDENT THAN IN ITS BOOMING RESTAURANT SCENE. AS A VISITOR RATHER THAN NATIVE, IT CAN BE ALMOST OVERWHELMING TRYING TO DECIDE WHERE TO ACTUALLY PIN YOUR DINNER HOPES AMONG THE ARRAY OF TANTALISING STREET FOOD, ACCLAIMED FINE DINING AND TEMPTING POP-UPS... REST ASSURED HOWEVER, YOU NEEDN’ T LOOK FURTHER THAN PIKE & PINE. BY SAMANTHA READY
Entering through relatively unassuming doors bearing the Red Rooster frontage of its daytime coffee shop alter-ego, Pike and Pine is just one of those places that you immediately want to fit into. It appears as effortlessly cool and sophisticated in a way that belies the clear effort that Michelin-awarded head chef and proprietor, Matt Gillan and his team have put into his first restaurant.
From the double-height ceilings with carefully chosen industrial design and the array of greenery in the form of hanging boxes and oversized trees, to the long marble island that affords countertop-seated diners uninterrupted views of the pass, everything is just right; comfortable and fresh, but not in a conceited way.
Understanding the changes and challenges facing the local market, Pike & Pine is not about destination dining, it’ s a local restaurant. And, while Gillan could’ ve gone high-end £ 100 per person menus( and did initially with some success), he’ s instead made the bold and wise decision to make his food affordable as well as amazing.
The menu, full of subtle Asian influences that result in tastebud-tingling hits of sweet and spice, is split into a four-section à la carte, or a daily chef’ s choice selection( from which we dined) to which you can add wine pairings, or something from the Brighton-inspired cocktail menu.
We began with a mini handbaked focaccia loaf with toasted chai seeds and sumac, warm from the oven and delicious with black salt butter. Then came the two‘ bites’ plates: herb arancini balls topped with lemon and caper mayo, and the beef bao whose bright red steamed bun shone like a beacon encasing spiced, slow-cooked beef shin and steamed cabbage.
Stage 2 – our‘ small / sharer’ plates delivered the mushroom fregola, tiny morsels of pasta with wild mushrooms, pickled mushrooms and lime segments topped with tapioca crumb; and pork belly – perfectly seared and sticky pork cut with apple segments, sweet sauce and an inspired crackling powder, which we devoured.
For our‘ larger plates’ we were offered herbcrusted hake – a change to the menu due to the recent catch off of the coast( which they adapted to cater for my shellfish allergy). The delicate fish dish with beans and kiwi epitomised the restaurant: simple, clean and fresh, while the black bean chicken delivered shiitake mushrooms, crispy pine nuts and a glazed, tender chicken breast complemented with a side of charred broccoli.
Dessert was another foray into clever flavour combinations in the form of a sublime vanilla panna cotta with rhubarb and gingerbread, and a very moorish treacle tart with custard ice cream and lemon curd, which was a delight.
Dreamt up for sharing and social eating, the whole concept just works – Matt Gillan and Pike & Pine, I salute you!
Pike & Pine 1D St James’ s Street Brighton BN2 1RE 01273 686668 info @ pikeandpine. co. uk www. pikeandpine. co. uk
PikeandPine _ at pikeandpine. co. uk pike _ pine
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