insideKENT Magazine Issue 74 - May 2018 | Page 101
In line with what appears to
be foodie preference these
days, the menu lists just two
ingredients per dish but each
dish is explained brilliantly
by alternating members of
Edwards’ restaurant team.
There is little point in me
going through each dish (go
for the maximum nine-
course tasting menu at £70
per head; it’s well worth
pushing the boat out for)
because the seasonal menu
changes weekly, but I can
tell you that I have nothing
but praise for all nine. As
much thought has been put
into the suppliers that the
restaurant uses as the menu
itself and I can guarantee
that the fish, meat or
vegetables you’re lucky
enough to have selected for
you will sing with flavour. At
etch., the simplicity of the
name of each dish belies the
complexity of its cooking,
which Steven Edwards
doesn’t want or need to
shout about; he just wants
you to enjoy it and you will.
Before I run out of space –
the bread, a light, warm
brioche with a shiny
Marmite glaze, which you’re
encouraged to smother with
a dehydrated seaweed butter
and a pinch of rock salt is so
good it deserves its own slot
on the menu, so leave your
gluten intolerance at the
door and go for it, and
Steven, if you read this,
please, please bring back the
apple and thyme dessert
(with marshmallows, sorbet
and cubes of sharp apple
jelly); it’s a thing of true
beauty.
etch. by Steven Edwards
216 Church Road
Hove
BN3 2DJ
01273 227485
[email protected]
www.etchfood.co.uk
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