insideKENT Magazine Issue 74 - May 2018 | Page 101

In line with what appears to be foodie preference these days, the menu lists just two ingredients per dish but each dish is explained brilliantly by alternating members of Edwards’ restaurant team. There is little point in me going through each dish (go for the maximum nine- course tasting menu at £70 per head; it’s well worth pushing the boat out for) because the seasonal menu changes weekly, but I can tell you that I have nothing but praise for all nine. As much thought has been put into the suppliers that the restaurant uses as the menu itself and I can guarantee that the fish, meat or vegetables you’re lucky enough to have selected for you will sing with flavour. At etch., the simplicity of the name of each dish belies the complexity of its cooking, which Steven Edwards doesn’t want or need to shout about; he just wants you to enjoy it and you will. Before I run out of space – the bread, a light, warm brioche with a shiny Marmite glaze, which you’re encouraged to smother with a dehydrated seaweed butter and a pinch of rock salt is so good it deserves its own slot on the menu, so leave your gluten intolerance at the door and go for it, and Steven, if you read this, please, please bring back the apple and thyme dessert (with marshmallows, sorbet and cubes of sharp apple jelly); it’s a thing of true beauty. etch. by Steven Edwards 216 Church Road Hove BN3 2DJ 01273 227485 [email protected] www.etchfood.co.uk EtchFood etchfood etchfood 101