FOOD + DRINK
FIRST DATE ANYONE? DINNER AT THE
Paternoster Chop House
FULL OF ATMOSPHERE, ICONIC LONDON VIEWS AND A HEARTY BRITISH MENU, WHAT MORE COULD YOU NEED? HOW ABOUT AN AIR OF TV FAMILIARITY AND A SIDE ORDER OF ROMANCE … BY SAMANTHA READY
I know and love the D & D London restaurant concept of great British food, carefully curated wine lists, faultless service, historic properties and iconic London views, but their Paternoster Chop House has always been top of my list of dining must dos.
I’ d like to say that this desire stems simply( and justifiably) from its welcoming and atmospheric dining room defined by a mix of small tables and comfy bench seating. Or, set directly under St Paul’ s Cathedral, its sleek bar with mixologists offering the latest must-have cocktails and a tried and tested chop house menu offering the best of British seafood, fish and meat – including their renowned charcoal grilled aged steaks … but honestly, it was driven just a little( ok, maybe a lot) by the fact that this little gem is the restaurant setting for Channel 4’ s hit show First Dates.
With an air of giddy excitement, but thankfully without the first date nerves, my husband and I headed through the imposing stone columns that mark the entrance to the outdoor terrace and double-height glass entrance, and while there may not have been a Fred( Sirieix, the legendary maître d ' from the show) or Merlin, bartender extraordinaire) waiting to greet us, we were warmly welcomed by the friendly and very well turned out Paternoster team.
Perched on the stool by the sleek curved bar, we were soon happily working through the cocktail list, supping an aptly named First Dates – a smooth and sweet Southern Comfort, cranberry and lychee affair, and an Elder & Wiser – a sweet and bitter mix of Jack Daniels Honey, elderflower and apple as we took in the atmospheric dining room, filled with a hubbub of working
lunches, celebratory groups and, of course, a wide range of‘ table pour deux’.
It was at our own – windowside and with direct views of St Pauls – that we began our dining feast. My dining partner, lured by the confident suggestion of our waitress, began with rock oysters served with a sharp red wine and shallot vinegar, while I was swung by the Clarence Court scotch egg made with rich sausage meat, black pudding and a glorious runny egg, and served with a fresh piccalilli which, despite being on the snack menu, was actually large enough for two.
Keen to add to the air of romance and inspired by a neighbouring table, we next decided to share the chateaubriand from the specials menu; the elegantly presented, meltin-the-mouth cut cleverly came with a tasting range of sauces and butters( the chophouse butter is a must!), so each mouthful was different from, but just as tasty as the last. Do not forget to ask for a side order of triplecooked chips; divine.
A welcome pause between courses gave us enough time to sneak off for a‘ First Dates’ selfie and meant that we could just about manage dessert, which we were thankful for as the rich, oozing chocolate fondant was the perfect indulgent end to our meal.
I’ m pleased to say that although the recent furore around this venue may have been based on its TV notoriety, its long-term notoriety will be for its expertly cooked quality British dishes combined with an unrivaled approach to service.
I’ m ready for my second date.
Paternoster Chop House Warwick Court, London EC4M 7DX 020 7029 9400 paternoster @ danddlondon. com www. chophouse-restaurant. co. uk
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