insideKENT Magazine Issue 63 - June 2017 | Page 53

FOOD+DRINK
THE ROYAL OAK
AT NEW ASH GREEN
BAGS OF CHARM, A FRIENDLY WELCOME, AND SOME MIGHTY FINE FOOD –
WHAT MORE COULD YOU ASK OF DINNER? BY SAMANTHA READY
Working in the gastropub game is not an easy
life choice, and deciding to take the reins at a
place that’s been formerly let down in terms
of both management and a general lack of
imagination is even more risky. Thank
goodness for the sheer determination, passion,
and skill and experience therefore of father
and son team, Simon and Dan Barton, who
not only took those reins at The Royal Oak at
New Ash Green, but are currently on course
to steer the pub straight into pole position.
Having honed his hospitality and
management skills far and wide it was a calling
back to his Kentish roots that led Simon to The
Royal Oak, while Dan had independently risen
through the ranks of cheffing, developing a
flair for good, wholesome food with a modern
twist.
The pair could instantly see the potential in
The Royal Oak and, following a refurbishment,
have relaunched the pub with a host of locally
produced ales, wines and spirits and a
tempting new menu.
Entering the modern gastropub, we were
immediately caught up in the welcoming
atmosphere of locals chatting at the bar over
their favourite Kentish tipple and midweek
diners, most of whom (credit to the team) were
returning guests. My guests and I were happily
settled at a corner table for four where we were
assisted in our menu choices not only by Dan
himself, but also by neighbouring diners who
raved about their own menu options with
such enthusiasm that my decisions were
promptly reinforced.
First up, an oozing baked camembert served
with crostini, apple, celery and a zingy sweet
red onion chutney; a platter of wild boar and
fennel salami, prosciutto, grissini and goats
cheese with a rich fig jam; crispy fried, fresh
baby squid with lemon aioli and, me personal
choice, a large, perfectly cooked scotch egg
encased in generously seasoned pork with a
thin a nd crispy crumb.
After a chorus of mutual ‘mmms’, we were
more than ready to devour our next course:
one ‘filth burger’ – a heaving bun containing
a homemade beef patty, chilli beef, chorizo
and guacamole served with crispy sweet
potato fries and fresh coleslaw; one chicken
breast burger – a juicy chicken breast served
with melting cheddar cheese, chilli jam and
chunky chips; the braised lamb shank – a
tender shank served with a mound of leek
mash, crispy parsnip chips and red cabbage;
and, finally, my own choice – the low-and-
slow pork belly with proper crispy crackling
and delicious apple sauce, all served atop a
heap of potatoes. The lamb and the pork both
tied for best dish of the evening.
Of course tempted by pud we couldn’t resist
the allure of the dessert menu opting for the
winter berry Eton mess, the banoffee pie and
the chocolate brownie – all three were as tasty
as they were heaving with sweet, satisfying
flavours.
With their first winter season behind them
and a headstrong breeze through spring, there
are now further plans to fully utlise the garden
at The Royal Oak for a summer of alfresco
dining, bbqs and music festivals; it’s clear to
see why this little gem is only going in one
direction – up.
The Royal Oak
Chapelwood Road,
New Ash Green, Kent
TN15 7HT
01474 871588
www.royaloaknewashgreen.co.uk
RoyalOak_NewAsh
RoyalOakTN15
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