LONDON
Laid back Australian charm in a sophisticated London setting? It can only be
DICKIE FITZ
IT FELT A LITTLE LIKE HEADING INTO THE UNKNOWN AS I VENTURED JUST NORTH OF OXFORD STREET TO TRENDY FITZROVIA( HENCE THE FITZ) IN THE HEART OF LONDON’ S WEST END, AND I HAVE TO SAY I WAS MORE THAN A LITTLE IMPRESSED AS I OPENED THE SLEEK DOORS TO DICKIE FITZ, THE FOURTH OFFERING BY LONDON RESTAURATEURS AFFINITY GROUP LOCATED COMMANDINGLY ON THE CORNER OF NEWMAN AND GOODGE STREETS. BY SAMANTHA READY
I walked into a light, bright dining room, beautiful art deco windows, white walls, sleek tables with pale grey bucket seats and long mustard colour benches, and a contemporary bar with high mustard stools all set off by the most captivating chandelier lighting. Australian influenced? Yes. Sophisticated? Without doubt. Yet the best bit is that this really is an all-day dining room – perfect, in fact, for the all-day menu inspired by the fresh flavours and ingredients of the Pacific, carefully crafted by Sydney-born head chef Matt Robinson.
Relaxed breakfast by the window: check. Working lunches with colleagues: check. Intimate table for two: check. Perfect cocktail drinking at the bar: check, check, check.
Taking a pew on a bench at a table for two, my guest was easily tempted by the cocktail menu, our resulting Dark N Stormy( Bundaberg Red, ginger beer and Gosling Rum) and She’ ll Be Apples( Eucalyptus Finlandia Vodka, apple juice and lime juice) were an ideal accompaniment to our menu browsing.
First up my guest opted for the Tempura soft shell crab, nam jim and coconut and was presented with a great textured dish. The tempura was melt in the mouth and the delicate coconut was tropical taste bud heaven. I opted for the truffle macancini – a dish which falls under the
‘ looks can be deceiving’ title. The tiny blackened balls arrived and my taste buds were prepared for, well frankly, a burnt uninspired beginning, but in fact they were a delicious concoction of pasta, cheese and truffle and were promptly devoured.
Next up we had evidently been swayed by the Aussie ability to grill, opting for the Aussie burger and the Australian sirloin. My guest’ s burger arrived as a heaving mound of beef, cheese, salad and relish in a brioche bun with a bucket of crisp fries; and my sirloin, cooked perfectly medium to my liking, came with a heady rich bone marrow butter and more of those tasty fries.
Feeling rather full we were persuaded( it didn’ t take much) to have a sweet ending, lured by the promise of a fine Australian dessert, and once again we were not disappointed by the huge pavlova that graced our table. The crisp, swirled meringue shell gave way to an inner sticky meringue, raspberry and strawberry sorbets and fresh lemon curd; it was sweet, sticky, sharp and fresh all at once. With the last ounce of room my guest was tempted one
last time by Mrs Robinson’ s Lamington, a perfectly cooked square of sponge, coconut temptation.
And with that we were done, and actually really hesitant to leave the comfort and stylishness of the dining room.
Matt Robinson has not only managed to create a mouthwatering array of dishes but has been able to do so in a way that showcases sophisticated, contemporary and refined Australian cuisine.
It takes a brave man to feature his mother’ s Lamington recipe on the menu; it seems he’ s done her more than proud.
Dickie Fitz 48 Newman Street London W1T 1QQ 0203 667 1445 www. dickiefitz. co. uk
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