insideKENT Magazine Issue 41 - August 2015 | Page 51

FOOD+DRINK

Dinner at The Manor Restaurant,
EASTWELL MANOR
Passionate about food, a key player in the UK’s culinary scene, loyal, motivational, and inspired by
his granny, Byron Hayter certainly has the right ingredients for a recipe of success… BY SAMANTHA G
Since taking the helm at Eastwell Manor’s The
Manor Restaurant at the end of last year, it's fair
to say that executive chef, Byron Hayter, has
embarked upon a food revolution at this beautiful
manor house, and the result is simply
breathtaking.
My guest and I are no strangers to Eastwell
Manor, yet there was an added air of excitement
as we arrived this July, on a balmy summers
evening. It’s fair to say that good news travels
fast around insideKENT HQ and the murmurs
and whispers about Byron’s impact at Eastwell
has stirred both our curiosity and our taste buds.
Settled into the cosy lounge with an aperitif
in hand and about to peruse the evening’s menus
– The Manor Restaurant offers a daily table d'hôte
and à la carte menu, as well as a seven-course
taster menu with the option of paired wines –
we were delighted to be shown the choices by
Byron himself.
With a natural warmth and clear sense of
ease in his new surroundings, it was a pleasure
to get a glimpse of the man behind the menu.
Down to earth, yet with unwavering standards,
a stickler for good produce and simple, but
perfectly executed dishes, and with a penchant
for puddings inspired by his granny, we were
kindred spirits and my appetite was truly whetted
for the courses my guest and I were about to
embark on.
Taking our seats in the wood-panelled
dining room, our first course – trio of garden
beetroot – arrived. The delicate layers of beetroot
jelly with Rosary Ash goats' cheese and beetroot
mousse were a feast for the eyes with its bright
pink and red hues, and we quickly devoured the
smooth, rich combination—washed down with
a lovely glass of Eastwell Manor Bauchet Origine
Brut – Champagne, NV.

To follow, the rare breed pork terrine was
just as impressive; an amazing slice of rich Oxford
Sandy melt-in-the-mouth meat with hunks of
pistachio, and set off with a foie gras bon bon
and a divine rhubarb jam.
Next up, we were treated to a sublime fillet
of turbot with textures of cauliflower. The delicate,
locally caught fish was pan-fried to perfection,
and, it's fair to say, I will never look at cauliflower
in the same way again; the crunchy bed of
chargrilled florets and smooth purée proved the
ideal accompaniment, and my guest (rightly)
declared it was the best fish dish we'd ever had.
This was perfectly matched with a glass of
Westwell Ortega Classic – Kent, 2013, which of
course made it better still.
We were we ready for our next culinary
masterpiece: the fillet of Kentish beef – translated
to a huge, perfectly cooked round of beef, served
with a sublime lobster mousse ravioli, and topped
with a lobster claw. Accompanied by a delicious
potato purée, baby vegetables, and doused in
a rich lobster bisque, this was the ultimate ‘surf
and turf’, and we happily consumed every last
bite of flavour, texture and quality. An
accompanying cheeky glass of Apaltagu Merlot
Reserva – Central Valley, 2013, did just the trick!
It’s fair to say by this point my guest and I
wouldn’t need to eat for a week, but my favourite
course was yet to come; and having heard Byron
rave about puddings at the start of the evening,
expectations were high. And boy we were not
disappointed; why settle for dessert, when you
can have pre-dessert too?
First up, millionaire’s shortbread. Being a
self-declared chocoholic, I was more than a little
bit excited when this classy, sleek affair of crumbly
sweet biscuit, rich chocolate mousse, sticky
caramel sauce and dark chocolate topping arrived

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in front of us. And if that wasn’t enough, this slice
of heaven came with a delightful salted caramel
ice cream, and a zingy pairing of the Chateau
Pontac – Loupiac, 2010.
And just when we thought it couldn’t get
any better, the 'Garden of England’ arrived, which
was amazing to say the least. The zingy mint
and strawberry salad, the warm, soft sugary
strawberry soufflé, fresh creamy strawberry ice
cream, and the glorious white chocolate and
strawberry mousse – just wow!
My guest and I barely remembered the
coffee and petit fours that completed the meal
as we ambled off into the sunset bursting (quite
literally) with excitement and awe at the dinner
and experience we had enjoyed.
I remember my godmother once saying
that taster menus, though delicious, often left
her feeling unfulfilled; and I can honestly say this
dining experience was one of the most fulfilling
we have ever enjoyed, and is testament to Byron
and his team’s passion and talent. I’ve already
recommended it to her, and I whole-heartedly
recommend it to you too!
Taster Menu with wine £70pp

The Manor Restaurant
Eastwell Manor
Eastwell Park
Boughton Lees
Ashford
TN25 4HR
01233 213000
www.eastwellmanor.co.uk
@EastwellManor