FOOD + DRINK and rye crackers. Silky, saline and carrying a gentle smokiness, the roe was lifted by the cucumber’ s sharp crunch while the rye added an earthy crispness; a simple combination, beautifully judged.
For mains, Samphire’ s fish pie seemed almost obligatory in a town so intrinsically linked to the sea. Beneath its golden topping sat generous flakes of fish enveloped in a rich creamy sauce, accompanied by seasonal greens that bought freshness to a wonderfully comforting plate.
The 8oz flat iron steak took things in a richer direction. Deeply caramelised outside and beautifully pink within, it came with Café de Paris butter melting slowly across the beef while peppery watercress provided a welcome bite. Particular attention must be paid to the beef-fat potatoes, which were thinly sliced, carefully stacked and fried until impossibly crisp outside while retaining a soft, almost confit-like centre. A glass of Raza Reserva Malbec from Argentina was an excellent match, tasting generous in ripe blackberry and plum, a little dark spice and enough structure to meet the richness of the beef.
Jonathan’ s enthusiastic persuasion also led us towards the bacon chop, a menu mainstay that changes with the seasons. This incarnation was paired with braised cannellini beans and chargrilled chicory, with the chop carrying all the salty, smoky richness you would hope for, while the creamy beans absorbed its juices beautifully. Chicory brought bitterness and char, balancing the richness of the dish, while a glass of MIP Côtes de Provence rosé brought pale summer-fruit freshness, delicate citrus and a dry finish.
We were hardly lacking carbs, yet the rosemary salted fries still found their way to our table, crisp and fragrant with woody herbs. Better still was the chargrilled hispi cabbage, its blackened edges concealing sweet, tender leaves beneath. Umami-rich miso dressing worked its way between the layers while pangrattato added crunch and the resolve to keep returning for one more bite.
Dessert was never really in question. The chocolate brownie was gloriously sticky and fudgy, topped with salted caramel and a scoop of blueberry lavender ice cream from award-winning Bear’ s, helpfully located across the street.
Equally delicious, the pavlova with Chantilly cream, blackberry compote and mint had everything a good pavlova should. Crisp shell, soft centre and, crucially, sticky where it mattered. The sharp, deeply fruity blackberry compote cut through the clouds of cream while mint added a final lift of freshness.
An espresso martini rounded off the evening; cold, smooth and properly coffeeled with enough bitterness to provide a final punctuation mark.
Samphire’ s new ownership may have marked a change behind the scenes, but from our table the qualities that earned this bistro its loyal following remain wonderfully recognisable. Holly’ s cooking remains generous, seasonal and confident, while Jonathan brings the room to life with the sort of genuine enthusiasm that cannot be learned from a hospitality manual.
For regulars, this continuity is reassuring. For everyone else, it provides a very good reason to discover Samphire for the very first time.
samphirewhitstable. co. uk samphire _ whitstable
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