FOOD + DRINK
ACROSS THE BORDER
SENSATIONAL FOOD AND SEASIDE EASE …
MARÉ BY RAFAEL CAGALI
BY POLLY HUMPHRIS
© David Charbit
Maré isn’ t the sort of restaurant you open by accident. Rafael Cagali, whose two-Michelinstarred Da Terra in Bethnal Green convinces Londoners to cross postcodes, could very easily have picked Brighton for his first venture outside London and watched the queues form. But he hasn’ t. He’ s chosen Hove- a decision that feels smarter and more measured- and he’ s brought with him a culinary perspective shaped by Brazilian upbringing, Italian roots and a career built around flavour, not fuss.
Located on Church Road, mere minutes from the seafront, the restaurant’ s modest 38-cover dining room immediately reflects that ethos; smooth pale wood and roundededge tables echo the pebbles on the nearby beach, while sheer white curtains billow gently, reminding you the sea is close. Stylish rather than showy, the space feels curated with the same care as the menu where subtle details reveal themselves slowly; a perfectly pitched approach for Hove’ s discerning diners- a crowd that rewards atmosphere as reverently as they do taste.
Even the glassware makes a subtle point, with tall elegant stems confirming that the standards are high, but the mood isn’ t stiff. The soundtrack- a solid run of 70’ s and
80’ s classics veering from Iggy Pop to The Cure and The Stone Roses- links Maré back to older sibling Da Terra’ s nostalgic energy while giving the room a relaxed and playful vibe that suits the city’ s laid-back edge.
Front of house is led by sommelier-manager Jake Garstang, whose team- Frederik, Aga, Beth and Lauren- strike that ideal balance of warmth and professionalism. They know the food, they know the wine, and crucially, they know when to appear and when to let you relish the moment, all with a friendly confidence that’ s never overbearing. Behind the scenes, head chef Ewan Waller( formerly senior chef de partie at Da Terra) leads the kitchen day-to-day, translating Cagali’ s ideas into dishes with his own sprinkling of alchemic precision.
The menu is structured in four parts: One Bites, Small Plates, To Follow and To Finish. It’ s a more relaxed format than Da Terra’ s tasting menus, but the same DNA is there and is instantly recognisable in inventive, confident cooking that’ s grounded in toptier ingredients and expert technique, but without any sense of it being dumbed down for the seaside.
One Bites arrived in the form of toasted brioche topped with liver parfait, preserved cherries and winter truffle. A polished bite that delivered far more flavour than its neat proportions suggested, the brioche itself was warm and buttery, the parfait silky, and the cherries a sharp, sour-sweet hit that cut through the depth of the offal. Our recommended crisp, citrus-lifted glass of Rathfinny Classic Cuvée matched this richness so cleanly, and solely on the recommendation of Frederik, whose pairings were faultless the entire night.
Next, a fried market oyster with hot-sauce emulsion and pickled onions. Crisp on the outside, soft and saline within, it walked a wonderful line between fish-and-chip shop comfort and high-end canapé, with heat, acidity and richness all present in a perfectly judged pairing. The third snack, an onion croustade with pickled walnut, was all about texture and sharpness. The pastry was thin and shatteringly crisp, the onion sweet and jammy, and the pickled walnut had that tangy kick that only umami can deliver. Together, the three bites defined the evening’ s statement of intent- this is a relaxed setting, but the cooking is exceptional.
Next, a BYOT( build your own taco) Small Plate of pulled lamb shoulder with manioc tortillas, mole and house hot sauce, a plate that’ s already achieving signaturedish status- and with good reason. The
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