FOOD + DRINK
© Key & Quill
© Key & Quill
© Adam Ready
© Adam Ready
cheese and horseradish dressing, poured with tableside flourish and bringing gentle heat to the fish.
Mains were hearty yet refined. The pork- brined chop with braised shoulder- delivered succulence without heaviness, paired with miso-red cabbage, fermented turnip purée and jewel-bright beetroot. The venison haunch was beautifully cooked, spiced and rosy, with kohlrabi, winter brassicas and soft poached quince playing foil to the deep, glossy game sauce. The 9oz sirloin offered generous flavour, its beer pickled onion adding tang, the peppercorn red wine jus tying everything together.
Sides were impossible to resist: truffle Parmesan fries crisp, aromatic and promptly devoured, velvety mashed potato crowned with crispy onions and a magnificent red wine jus, and seasonal brassicas with crispy seaweed, bringing balance and green freshness.
When we managed to lure Marcus from the pass before dessert, the passion was palpable.“ The walnuts are from the village, we brined them for two weeks, then washed them, then pickled them for two months … Ooh, did you have the quince? That comes from mum’ s garden. She’ s an avid grower, as is my mother-in-law, lucky for me!… Those gherkins, we pickled those in the summer.... The butter? That’ s made in-house too...”. Aside from produce grown by the family and foraged in the village, ingredients are sourced from Mereworth, whose produce is so revered there is a waiting list.
Suddenly, the precision and clarity of flavour in each dish made perfect sense.
Encouraged by his passion, and by our server Phoebe whose warmth and intuition elevated our entire evening, Adam and Jerry opted for one of the two cheese course options, Kingcott Blue cheese served molten over a rich malt loaf offset with zingy pickled pear, before dessert proper arrived. The Muscavado cream was lightly set, caramel-rich, paired with cacao nibs, chestnut crumb, figs and tarragon ice cream for depth and fragrance. The blackberry crumble reimagined the classic with vanilla parfait the star of the plate accompanied by blackberry sorbet, poached berries and macadamia crunch. The honey madeleine,
served with white chocolate ganache and lavender was delicate and elegant, also showcasing delicate techniques of tuile and careful plating, while the crème brûlée, Marcus’ s own favourite, cracked perfectly to reveal cool vanilla custard.
Aside from our cocktail foray, a considered wine list supports the well-conceived menu here, with ample by-the-glass options including a lightly oaked Stones Throw Chardonnay‘ 22 from Australia that paired beautifully with the scallops, and a crisp citrus-led Rapaura Springs Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough that lifted the salmon and velouté effortlessly.
The whole evening felt refined yet relaxed, carried by genuine hospitality and a kitchen cooking with conviction. St Leonards is a restaurant confident in its identity, grounded by its roots and acknowledging of its period charm, elevated further by its craft and humble hospitality. It is quietly, quite wonderful.
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