LONDON
RETRO-FUTURISTIC ITALIAN WITH A DIFFERENCE …
BARBARELLA,
CANARY WHARF
SOME NEW RESTAURANTS ARRIVE QUIETLY, A SEDATE AFFAIR OF MUTED TONES, LOCAL PRODUCE AND SIMPLE VIBES, OTHERS, HOWEVER, THROW OPEN THEIR GIANT DOORS IN A FANFARE OF RETRO-FUTURISTIC ITALIAN GLAM, 1970’ S-INSPIRED CACOPHONY- AND I, FOR ONE, AM HERE FOR IT!
BY SAMANTHA READY
Set in the heart of the soaring towers of Canary Wharf, Big Mamma Group’ s latest London venture, Barbarella, has arrived in all its sequinned 1970’ s Cinecittà glory. Big on atmosphere, dècor, flavours and dishes – think metre-long spaghettone and desserts as big as your head( yes, really) – this glamorous Italian has been designed with drama in mind and a bold menu to match.
Arrival is a joyful experience, ushered first to the ground-floor central bar via animal print carpets, striking statues and a blast of colour, past a myriad of diners ranging from families with babies in tow nipping in for a quick wood-fired Neopolitan pizza to the early evening glam squad preparing to stay the course of antipasti, primi, secondi and dolci while making light work of the inspired cocktail menu.
The décor is as much a talking point as the food here. It leans into a 1970’ s Italiana glam aesthetic, with playful nods to the disco years scattered everywhere- think rollerskates on the walls and framed metallic bodysuits. And then there’ s the pièce de résistance: the enormous head of David that looms just outside the bathroom offering classical Renaissance grandeur with a wink of irony. It’ s all gloriously over-thetop, tongue-in-cheek and sets the stage perfectly for the evening ahead.
We began at that aforementioned bar, a gleaming hub that feels both glamorous and intimate, and great for a pre-dinner aperitif. The cocktail list is creative and aptly Sicilian-led. Adam sipped the Sicilian Margarita, a refreshing twist on the classic with Olmeca Blanco tequila, cucumber, lime and the fragrant liqueur of Acqua de Cedro, its agave infused with green peppercorn adding a subtle savoury spice note. I opted for the Brooklyn Sour, an unexpectedly elegant concoction of Earl Grey-infused vodka, peach liqueur and raspberry, lifted with a splash of Sicilian lemonade. It was all-at-once sweet and sharp and just gently aromatic. It was so good that it was almost immediately nabbed by Jerry, so for good measure we also shared the Pistacchi-tini, Barbarella’ s playful, indulgent Martini-meets-espresso moment. Much like the restaurant itself, the drinks were bold, stylish, playful and designed to impress – and they did not disappoint.
Taste buds tempted, it was time for dinner, where we were expertly led to the first-floor dining room- a darkly atmospheric hub with yet more bold decor and amazing glimpses of the pass.
We began with a trio of antipasti that set the tone for the evening: pillowy focaccia, warm from the oven and rubbed with garlic until fragrant, perfect for swiping through peppery olive oil; a cloud-like burrata al pesto di basilico( though there are numerous incarnations to choose from), its creamy centre spilling luxuriously as the sharp green basil pesto cut through with herbal freshness; and my favourite of the three, the crocchette di vitello tonnato. These irresistible golden croquettes gave way to soft veal that was paired with a rich tomato salsa- a clever nod to Piedmontese tradition wrapped in a bar snack disguise.
From there we moved to the primi piatti, and here the kitchen really began to flex. We opted to share Barberalla’ s showstopper sharing pasta. The spaghettone al tartufo was a masterclass- thick, metre-long stands of pasta cooked to perfection and spun tableside in butter and truffle, it’ s one of those rare dishes that silenced the table( even more impressive with the iK team!).
It was the secondi plates, however, that turned the meal into a spectacle. Wanting to sample as much as possible and suitable encouraged by our server Lorenza, who was faultless all evening, we opted to share three cuts of beef: the filetto al pepe verde, a tender fillet lifted by classic green peppercorn sauce; the mighty Big T-Bone Fiorentina, a 1.2kg sharer carved from the bone to reveal rich, juicy meat and deep char flavours; and finally, the ribeye tagliata, aged for 28 days and sliced into ruby-red ribbons, each bite succulent, marbled and full of flavour. Sharing them side by side was a revelation, the tenderness of the fillet, the depth of the ribeye and the primal satisfaction of the T-bone, all perfectly paired with crispy potatoes topped with Parmesan in goldenedged, salty heaven, and a simple insalata verde for necessary balance.
Dessert, of course, brought its own sense of theatre. We obviously had to pick the faithful classic tiramisu, which was proffered tableside in a rustic dish to be served in generous spoonfuls just like Nonna would have done. The XL crème brûlée was just that, a vast silver tray of pud indulgence which cracked with the most satisfying snap, giving way to silken custard beneath. The pistachio profiterole Napoletana was again playful and indulgent; a giant choux bun filled with pistachio cream glassed with dark chocolate. But nothing could have prepared us for my incomparable lemon pie … For want of a better description, it was massive! Meringue towered high- truly bigger than my head- pillowy, toasted and hiding a bright lemon core beneath that balanced sharpness and sweetness with precision, it was decadent, outrageous and utterly unforgettable!
Which, frankly, is how I’ d describe our entirely wonderful evening!
Barbarella is not a place for restraint. It’ s a place for celebrating food in all its generosity and glamour. Every plate, every sip, every spaghettoni pull and every slice of giant lemon meringue pie felt designed to bring people together. To share, to indulge, to reminisce, to make memories. And with David keeping watch, disco-era treasures gleaning in the corners and that clever flamboyant undertone, Barbarella delivers dining as dazzling as its décor.
bigmammagroup. com / italian-restaurants / barbarella bigmamma. uk www. insidekent. co. uk • 127