FOOD + DRINK
THE WINEMAKER DINNER AT
BUENOS AIRES NIGHTS,
CANTERBURY
THERE ARE SOME EVENINGS WHERE FOOD AND WINE COME TOGETHER SO EFFORTLESSLY THAT YOU FORGET THERE’ S ANY OTHER WAY TO EXPERIENCE THEM. OUR NIGHT AT BUENOS AIRES NIGHTS IN CANTERBURY, IN THE COMPANY OF WINEMAKER JUAN PABLO LUPIÁÑES OF LUPA WINES( NAMED IN HONOUR OF HIS CHILDHOOD NICKNAME), WAS EXACTLY THAT. AN EVENING WHERE ARGENTINA ITSELF SEEMED TO HAVE SETTLED AROUND OUR TABLE, IN THE CLINK OF GLASSES, THE WARMTH OF CONVERSATION AND THE SMOKY OAK-AGED DEPTH OF MALBEC … BY SAMANTHA READY
Juan Pablo is not your usual winemaker. There’ s no pomp, no ego, no glossy marketing pitch. Instead, there’ s a refreshing, honest and straight-talking humour that makes you want to lean in closer. His ethos is simple: wine should be local, it should reflect the soil it comes from and, above all, it should be drunk and enjoyed. The first bottle he ever made, nearly two decades ago, still bears its manifesto on the label: a list of all the things he wanted to strip away from modern winemaking. Global? No, wine should taste of home. Marketing? Simply‘ meh’. Complexity? A personal pet peeve of a word that he believes is bandied about too easily by tasters when they don’ t know what else to say. Rockstar winemakers? Too much ego, not enough vineyard. Ratings and scores? Utter nonsense. Instead, Juan Pablo’ s approach is gloriously straightforward:“ Find the wine, open it, drink it, enjoy it, finish the bottle. And if you’ re lucky, open another!”
And so, with that ethos guiding the evening, we, and a cosy collection of six other couples and duos, settled in for a three-course Argentine feast, each dish paired with carefully chosen wine from his cellar in Mendoza.
The night began with the smoker chicken skewer, the meat marinated in garlic and smoky paprika, then grilled until tender. It arrived resting on a bed of impossibly creamy mashed potatoes, with just a little sweetness playing beautifully against the subtle smoke of the chicken. Paired with Calle Constantini Blanco Canoso 2022, the match was inspired. The wine was fresh, crisp and bright, with citrus and stone fruit notes that cut cleanly through the richness on the plate, its mineral finish lifting each bite.
Next came the main event: an Argentinian sirloin steak, seared with that dark, flavoursome crust only the grill can bring, juicy and perfectly pink inside. Served simply with charred green beans and another swirl of those silky potatoes, it needed no adornment. The pairing, Lupa Malbec 2019, was everything you hope for in malbec- dark cherry, plum and a whisper of cocoa, rounded out by soft tannins( achieved by Juan Pablo’ s philosophy of always oak barrel-ageing for two winters) that melted into the steak’ s richness. It wasn’ t just delicious; it was a reminder of why Argentina and malbec are so often spoken of in the same breath.
Dessert was a split decision. I couldn’ t resist the chocolate mousse- dark, rich and unashamedly indulgent, with nibs of bitter chocolate hiding in its depths and a swirl of cream on top for balance. Jerry went savoury, opting for the cheeseboard, a neat selection of sharp Cheddar and pungent blue lifted by caramelised onion. Juan Pablo’ s pairing, the Calle Constantini Malbec- Petit Verdot 2021, was arguably the most intriguing wine of the night. It had depth and structure, a brooding quality from the Petit Verdot, yet it danced lightly enough to play against both the cheese and the onions, my mousse just as happy with it too.
Throughout the evening, Juan Pablo guided us with a mix of humour, insight and just the right amount of irreverence. No jargon, no unnecessary complication, just good stories about the land he works and the grapes he grows, and a genuine passion for sharing them with people. You could feel the room relax in his company; the wine flowed, the conversation flowed, and suddenly the steak plates were empty and another bottle uncorked.
Buenos Aires Nights is sure to make a real name for themselves with evenings like this. Across their three sites- Ashford, Maidstone and Canterbury, they host regular winepairing dinners that sell out quickly, and it’ s easy to see why. They are indulgent yet approachable, educational without ever feeling like a lecture, and above all, filled with the convivial spirit that makes food and wine so inseparable.
The best part? This range of Lupa Wines features on the BA Nights wine list, so even outside of these special evenings you can order a glass( or a bottle) and taste a little of Juan Pablo’ s Argentinian terroir alongside your steak.
As the night drew to a close, the last of the chocolate mousse disappeared and glasses were drained of their final sip of malbec. We left with that unmistakable warmth that only good food, good wine and good company can deliver – a taste of Mendoza, right in the heart of Canterbury.
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