TRAVEL
honey- the best duck I have ever eaten- served alongside a bitter cacao crumble and cherry jus that tiptoed on the edge of dessert. The pacing was perfect, the wine pairings from the estate thoughtful and unexpected, and the service that rare combination of polished and personal. Every plate felt like a little revelation and an utter treat.
The next morning, still slightly dazed by the flavour fireworks of the night before, we wandered the grounds before venturing out to explore the wonder of the neighbouring Gruissan salt plains, before returning to spend the late afternoon in the spa, which is cleverly hidden in the château’ s vaulted depths. All stone and silence, it feels like a secret. Treatments here are rooted in Mediterranean botanicals and take place in cocooning, candlelit rooms. I opted for a full-body massage using warm oils infused with lavender and thyme from the estate’ s gardens and floated out an hour later feeling completely undone- in the very best way.
Our second night took us somewhere more elemental: Asado, the château’ s fire-driven bistro where meat takes centre stage and everything feels a little more relaxed; a little more playful. Aged prime cuts hang in the plentiful meat fridges, wines are front and centre in cabinet and fridge, and the menu temptations begin in earnest with oysters, served simply as they should be with shallot vinaigrette and grilled lemon, fresh grilled baguettes with salted butter laced with garlic purée, and starters of flame-seared local asparagus topped with shavings of cheese commence proceedings. We shared the côte de boeuf, served still hissing from the grill which dominates the open pass, with bowls of crisp roasted new potatoes, seasonal vegetables charred and caramelised to perfection and a plethora of indulgently rich sauces: creamy bernaise, punchy peppercorn and house BBQ. The beef itself, served rare, had that wonderful mix of melt and chew, kissed with smoke and served with a casual confidence that didn’ t need over-dressing. A bottle of the estate’ s Maëlma 2018 added just the right Grenache, Syrah and Carignan velvet weight to the table.
Between courses and strolls, everything at Capitoul feels harmonious. There’ s no jarring note, no over-polish. Just warmth, charm and a real sense of place. Days are as careful and intimate as you could wish for. There is peace and a sense of luxurious tranquility from the moment you arrive, yet you are only mere minutes from the beach, salt flats or bustling town of Narbonne. And, of course, wine is only a pour away.
In the early evening, we walked the vineyards alone, watching the light fold itself into golden ribbons over the lagoon. Swallows swooped above the vines, the hum of cicadas rising with the warmth. It’ s hard to put into words the peace of that moment; the sense of being entirely elsewhere and yet entirely at home.
Château Capitoul is somewhere that honours its past while quietly rewriting its future – with food, with wine, with welcome. It’ s so much more than a hotel, or a vineyard, or a winery, it’ s a living, breathing expression of land and legacy. While its beauty is instantly obvious, it’ s the thoughtfulness that lingers: the passion of its owners, the intention behind the wine, the stillness of the spa, the thrill of a tasting menu that dares. It’ s somewhere to retreat, to celebrate, to restore.
And long after the last sip and the final sunset, it’ s a place you’ ll carry with you- even if just in a bottle to take home.
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