FOOD + DRINK in THE KITCHEN WITH
CHARLIE KENDALL- SMITH
HEAD CHEF, THE DOG AT WINGHAM, WINGHAM
What’ s the restaurant concept at The Dog At Wingham? Locally sourced( where possible) elevated pub dining; everything is produced in our own kitchen from bread to ice cream. We draw in influences from all over the world, but use the Garden of England to its fullest, always striving to give our customers a memorable experience, whether they’ re coming for a family occasion or a romantic celebration. We believe we cater for everyone, offering a variety of dishes. Every chef in our kitchen plays a part in our frequently changing menus, which change four times a year according to the seasons.
Tell us about the recipe we’ re showcasing? It’ s my own take on a childhood favourite of mine, as well as my signature dish: Jaffa Cake. We make this dessert a lot at The Dog- definitely because it tastes delicious and probably because it ignites a bit of nostalgia in those that choose it. Just don’ t mention the biscuit or cake debate!
What is your signature dish? Growing up, Jaffa Cakes were my ultimate treat; I couldn’ t go long without having some, so they were always in my lunch box at school and in the cupboards at home. Now that I have found my way into a culinary career, I thought it might be fun to recreate my favourite childhood treat and I have used my skills and creativity to produce a dish that is instantly recognisable as the well known biscuit / cake yet completely elevated.
I have kept the traditional base, which is a Genoise sponge, and on top I’ ve made a set chocolate mousse topped with a blood orange jelly. The jelly is made with the best, freshest, hand-squeezed blood oranges available, boiled and skimmed to extract impurities, which creates a clear jelly rather than a cloudy one. To garnish the cake, I make candied orange peel, which not only elevates the dish for texture, but also means we can ensure we are getting the most out of the blood oranges we use- not just for juice, but for the peel too.
A tuille made from cocoa nibs, dark chocolate soil and an orange gel finishes off the plate, and for a refreshing touch I add a blood orange sorbet. This dish is hugely successful at the restaurant and a top seller. One that will surely return to the menu on many occasions. I will say though, if you don’ t like Jaffa Cakes, stay away from this one!
What ingredient could you not live without? I love everything about food, from meat and fish to vegetables, and I believe every ingredient can be something special given the right treatment. The one thing I know I simply could not live without is cheese! I love everything about it and have tried many, which reflects on our cheeseboard at The Dog. We change our cheese frequently because I know there are so many amazing choices out there, not only globally but right on our doorstep here in Kent!
Which chef, past or present, would you love to work in the kitchen with? Anthony Bourdain is a massive inspiration of mine. He had a big love for street food as well as more traditional global cuisines. He was honest, humorous and extremely passionate about food, and I’ d like to think I try to bring that into my way of cooking and leading the kitchen.
Aside from your own restaurant, where’ s your go-to place to dine in Kent? I love to eat out at many great places- some striving for accolades, others doing very simple street-food style cooking and usually the most enjoyable in every sense- the family-run, packed-out restaurant where anyone is welcome! One in particular for me is Sardinia in Broadstairs, an old-school, family-run Italian restaurant. It’ s the restaurant that my family goes to when we all get together. I love the chaos of one big table of people of all ages trying to put an order together. Always a very good atmosphere and the food is always spot on.
What is your guilty pleasure? Roast potatoes … this is only a guilty pleasure because when I cook the roast on Sundays at The Dog I find myself picking at them all day! Almost to the point where I might have to increase my ordering each week! Don’ t tell the boss!
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