LONDON
© Rob Whitrow Photography
curveball and the dish takes on a new flavour profile that makes you question your first ftaste. It’ s clever, technically accomplished and lipsmackingly enjoyable.
As was perfectly evidenced in my starter choice of the Comté soufflé, which arrived proud and puffed like a golden cloud, oozing with savoury depth. Incredibly light, it was paired with a delicate pear ice cream that somehow made perfect sense, hot then cold, sweetness teasing out the cheese’ s nuttiness in a surprisingly elegant pairing, which was then followed by the unexpected crunch of celery amid a soft spot of rich cheese and a sip of perfectly paired wine that changed the cheese sharpness yet again. Mr R’ s morel and Savagnin cocotte meanwhile offered an earthy, creamy hug of a dish with spring onions and tender baby carrots that tasted like early summer in a saucepan.
Then came an unexpected treat, sent out from the kitchen with an enthusiastic“ Chef said you must try this …”, the Lily Sing Salad was a riot of texture and colour: buttery avocado, jewel-like Datterini tomatoes, silken tofu, pops of Thai grapefruit, freeze-dried raspberries, juicy pomegranate seeds and the genius addition of a miso mayo amid juicy bites of sweet, ripe mango. Vibrant, fresh,
THE BEST WAY TO GET TO LONDON unapologetically joyful and hands down the best salad I have ever tasted.
Our main event featured a duo of dishes impossible to choose between. The fillet of Irish grass-fed beef was faultless, succulent and deeply flavoured, perfectly paired with crisp-yet-cloudlike pommes dauphine and a rich, silky béarnaise that had just the right punch of tarragon. The Dover sole, a Sketch signature offered in three preparation options, was meunière perfection, glossy with butter, zesty with lemon and so exquisitely cooked it melted on the tongue.
Because restraint has no place here, we added a cheeky side of truffle and cheese French fries- utter perfection- served with their house‘ Sketchup’, a sharp-sweet condiment that felt delightfully nostalgic, but upgraded. Think Happy Meal in haute couture.
Dessert, naturally, was a performance. White Moon was a tropical dream- passionfruit, mango and lime balanced in a silky namelaka cream, topped with delicate meringue for crunch. Bright, punchy and playfully light.
And then came the Pomme au Four, Sketchstyle. A tableside performance of Calvadosflambéed roasted apple nestled on sponge cake, spooned over with a river of Tahitian vanilla custard and dotted with tart redcurrants.
Throughout, the service was intuitive and warm, the wines thoughtfully chosen and the whole evening delivered with that magical Sketch twist- equal parts style and substance.
And of course, no visit would be complete without a trip to the egg pod toilets … We’ d heard the rumours, seen the pictures, but nothing prepared us for the experience of seeing each sleek white capsule standing to attention under futuristic lights and serenaded by birdsong. It’ s hard to describe until you see it – but go and you’ ll understand why it’ s as iconic as the food.
Sketch isn’ t just dining. It’ s an artistic epicurean dreamscape, part gallery, part gastronomy, part performance. And somehow, despite the spectacle, it’ s the food that lingers. Every bite considered, every detail finessed, every flavour exquisitely layered to perfection. We left floating – full, inspired, and just a little bit in love.
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With super fast connections courtesy of Southeastern ' s High Speed trains, venture to London in less than an hour, all ready to enjoy a luxurious, epicurean London evening. www. southeasternrailway. co. uk www. insidekent. co. uk • 149