FOOD + DRINK
SOURCE
AT THE GILPIN X FORTNUM & MASON
BY SAMANTHA READY
Tucked away on the third floor of Fortnum & Mason, London’ s iconic department store no less, lies a culinary discovery that’ s as unexpected as it is unforgettable. The Food & Drink Studio, a lesserknown treasure nestled above the bustle of Piccadilly’ s finest, recently played host to SOURCE at The Gilpin: a pop-up dining experience from quietly brilliant chef Ollie Bridgwater and his Michelin-starred team. And what an experience it was …
From the moment we stepped into this intimate, show-kitchenmeets-private-dining space, there was a palpable sense of occasion. Not in a starched tablecloths and white gloves way, but in a‘ we’ re about to be part of something quietly extraordinary’ kind of way. The pop-up was more than a restaurant, or even private dining experience, it transpired to be a showcase of SOURCE’ s philosophy with Ollie Bridgwater firmly at the helm. Having cut his teeth under the legendary Heston Blumenthal at The Fat Duck( and later launching the group’ s venture in Australia), Bridgwater has taken the theatricality and precision of molecular gastronomy and grounded it in a rare kind of earthy( and often modest) authenticity.
It all begins with sourcing. And I mean serious sourcing. Ollie doesn’ t just talk the talk – his kitchen team heads down to farmer Jim’ s every morning to collect freshly laid eggs, he sponsors lobsters to ensure the highest quality stock, and each ingredient is chosen with almost reverent intent. And this obsession with quality shines through in every dish.
We began with canapés: a chalk stream trout croustade kissed with yuzu and kombu, so delicately bright it felt like a palate awakening followed swiftly by chicken liver parfait with blackberry and almond on a crisp bite of pain de pice – an unexpected yet harmonious blend of earthy, sweet and savoury.
Each course was then set to be perfectly paired with wines from Fortnum’ s esteemed cellar, beginning with a welcome glass of Kent’ s own Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs, its toasty elegance and fine mousse an ideal companion to those opening canapés.
Then came what I can only describe as the bread course of dreams: sticky, warm milk bread, pillowy soft with an almost brioche-like richness, served with crispy shallot, wild garlic butter and truffle honey. I could have eaten an entire loaf and called it a night.
But then, of course, came the lobster. A gleaming curl of Cornish lobster, sweet and impossibly tender, nestled in a red curry sauce that walked a delicate tightrope between bold and balanced, offset by gently braised lettuce that brought just the right note of freshness.
The turbot followed, presented with almost sculptural elegance alongside nashi pear, kombu and roast bone sauce. The fish was cooked to opaque perfection and the contrast of savoury richness with the delicate fruity crispness of pear was sublime.
From the coast to the Lake District( naturally, given SOURCE’ s proud home), the next dish was Bridgwater at his most grounded and most glorious. Chicken, but not just any chicken – this was Lake District poultry, basted with wild garlic and served with earthy morels and a slick of XO that delivered an umami punch I’ m still thinking about days later.
Dessert? A work of art. Yorkshire rhubarb, elegantly tart and beautifully offset with floral lavender, warming saffron and a subtle hint of pink pepper. Somehow soft, spiced, sweet and sharp all at once, it was like a spring hedgerow on a plate. And just when we thought the night was over, Bridgwater played his final card: a white chocolate and caviar macaron. Sweet and savoury, silky and crisp, it was bizarre, brilliant and utterly unforgettable.
This wasn’ t just dinner. This was theatre. This was storytelling. This was a masterclass in sourcing, flavour pairing and modern British cookery – with a molecular wink and a generous dose of soul.
What a discovery. What a space. What a chef.
With whispers of a Kentish pop-up in the future crossing the pass, watch this space for Bridgwater’ s next local move. For now, you can enjoy his iconic cookery at SOURCE at the Gilpin Hotel & Lake House. Reservations are, of course, essential.
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