FOOD + DRINK
WHITSTABLE’ S NEW NEIGHBOURHOOD PIZZA HAVEN
the woodfire kitchen, WHITSTABLE BY SAMANTHA READY
I
’ m not sure what I was expecting when I jumped at the chance to visit the woodfire kitchen, the newest offering from Whitstable publicans turned neighbourhood restaurateurs Natalie and Andrew Hennessy. The striking bright orange facade was the first surprise; the fact that this neighbourhood joint has just four tables, which they cleverly turn three-times each evening to keep up with the growing demand that has seen them go from opening to booked out every evening in just three months, was the next. Yet, what was never in question was that the food here was going to be great.
Entering through that aforementioned bright orange doorway, the iK crew were immediately ensconced into the welcoming space. There’ s something about the flickering glow of a wood-fired oven that instantly draws you in, and at the woodfire kitchen that warmth extends far beyond the flames. This is a place where the scent of slowroasted lamb mingles with the tang of freshly charred dough, where friends and families gather over sharing tables, and where each dish is an absolute testament to a shared love of good simple food done well.
To a backdrop of clever custom-made artworks that seamlessly embody the duo’ s love of their seaside home interspersed with nods to their beloved family, we perused the considered menu that was heaving with quality ingredients, flavour-forward dishes and some clever takes on expected pizzabased classics.
Small but perfectly formed it showcased the simple yet confident approach that the pair seemingly effortlessly deliver.
We began with a trio of dips served alongside beautifully blistered flatbreads; the perfect vehicle for scooping up silky house-made hummus, a rich roasted red pepper blend, and a punchy garlic and herb yoghurt. A bowl of mixed house olives- plump, briny and effortlessly moreish- provided the ideal counterpart to our first sips of chilled Brooklyn Brewery IPA and a cheeky deadlinecelebrating espresso martini.
Then came the pizzas, each one kissed by the flames of the wood-fire oven courtesy of passionate chef Chris and boasting that unmistakable balance of crisp exterior and pillowy, chewy centre. The Fiesty Nelson- now colloquially renamed the Fiery Nelson in homage to the heritage building’ s former inn incarnation, was a standout- Adam’ s spicy‘ nduja melting into the fior di latte mozzarella while roquito peppers added an addictive, sweet heat that lingered long after each bite. Jerry’ s‘ Prosciutto’ offered something more delicate but no less indulgent, with a mountain of paper-thin slices of prosciutto draped over creamy fior di latte, topped with plentiful shavings of aged Parmesan and offset with peppery rocket; every mouthful a
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