FOOD + DRINK in THE KITCHEN WITH
STEPHEN GEORGE,
HEAD CHEF, NUMBER NINE, CHAPEL HOUSE ESTATE, RAMSGATE
Tell us about your culinary journey so far? I fell into the world of catering. Initially, I wanted to be an architect, but at 15 years old I found myself working as a kitchen porter at the Cliff Hotel in my hometown of Gorleston-on-Sea in Norfolk. I quickly fell in love with the buzz of service, the heat of the kitchen, the organised chaos and the art of plating the food I had cooked. 32 years later, I’ m still just as passionate about it. I trained at the FE College in Great Yarmouth before moving to the Park Farm Hotel in Norwich, which is where I discovered not only my love for cooking, but also for growing all sorts of food from herbs to vegetables, and even helping to plant an orchard and nuttery.
What’ s the restaurant concept at number nine? If I had to label my food, I would call it refined dining. number nine is a relaxed space where food and guests can be themselves. I try to support local suppliers and cook with only seasonal ingredients. This way, I can deliver the best possible dishes at the best possible prices and I think my menus reflect that philosophy.
What is your signature / favourite dish? That’ s a tough one! Each season brings its own special ingredients. Winter is all about rich, sticky sauces, ox cheeks and creamy mash, while summer is lighter with fresh dressings, salads, fish and of course outdoor cookery.
Tell us about the recipe we’ re showcasing? Spring is an interesting time, when winter isn’ t quite over and summer is just around the corner. For me, this means slow-braised lamb with mint pesto, green beans and garlic-roasted Jersey Royals; it’ s a dish that perfectly embodies spring, the richness of the lamb pairing beautifully with a fresh, light pesto that brings the whole dish together.
What ingredient could you not live without? That’ s easy: salt. It’ s essential because, alongside the techniques I use to get the best out of the ingredients I’ m cooking with, salt brings out the best flavour in everything I cook, whether it’ s fish, meat or even chocolate.
Which chef, past or present, would you love to work in a kitchen with? Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall from River Cottage. I admire the way he lets ingredients shine on their own. He focuses on growing his own fruits, herbs and vegetables, which is something I’ d love to do too. Knowing that it can take six months to grow something like a carrot or parsnip makes you respect the ingredients much more.
Aside from your own restaurant, where’ s your go-to place to dine in Kent? I have two favourites: Kebbells in Broadstairs, which in my opinion offers the best seafood in Kent, and The Dog at Wingham- their pork belly is almost as good as mine.
What is your guilty pleasure? Brown sauce. Yes, you heard that right- brown sauce. No chef will admit to it, but we all add it to our food at home!
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