GETAWAYS
FARM SHOP
MOUNT ST . RESTAURANT
mainly I assume because it ’ s surrounded by a neighbourhood of incredible restaurants . Walking all but 10 minutes door-to-door , our table was booked at Mount St . Restaurant , a Michelin-Guide recommended modern British hotspot on the first floor of iconic Mayfair landmark The Audley Public House , which brings together exquisite food and drink , craftsmanship and culture . How ? Art : the provocative and captivating thread that winds its way through every part of this extraordinary getaway .
Set against the backdrop of specially commissioned , site-specific art , including the breathtaking ‘ Broken Floor ’, a palladiana mosaic floor by Rashid Johnson seen throughout the restaurant , and a handpainted artist intervention by Anj Smith in the Games Room on the fourth floor , there is nothing anodyne about the art in this restaurant ( unsurprising when you discover that art gallery group Hauser & Wirth are behind it ), which mixes pieces from Matisse and Man Ray to Warhol and Lucien Freud with ease and accessibility .
The food itself could be considered art , albeit transient , as it ’ s too good not to devour instantly . Executive chef Jamie Shears works closely with farmers , growers and makers to secure the freshest British produce from around the UK , including beef and lamb from Durslade , the owners ’ farm in Somerset , and the glorious provenance of every ingredient shines through with each bite . Starting with six plump and creamy Louet Feisser oysters , we indulged in sea bream ceviche ‘ strawberries and cream ’, a fresh dish of sour and sweet punctuated by salty pops of caviar , and mock turtle croquettes made with grassy , earthy venison that were elevated by a herby sauce packed with parsley and basil .
For mains , we had to try the lobster pie . Mount St . only threw open its doors in 2022 and is already a classic London restaurant , and the lobster pie , a circular silver bowl with ‘ claw ’ handles topped with a golden-brown crust out of which proudly pokes the head of a lobster , is without doubt already a signature dish . Both comforting and classy , it was full of sweet lobster doused in a rich and creamy bechamel and a buttery , indulgent bisque . Sensational , especially when paired with crispy cubes of bubble and squeak , and some thyme-glazed carrots .
Returning to the understated elegance of The Mayfair Townhouse , our over-excited senses instantly relaxing as we digested the brilliance of the evening sinking into a cloud-soft bed dressed in satisfyingly crisp white linen , it was time for a restful sleep . The rooms at the hotel are spread across 15 different buildings ( seven of which are listed ) across mismatched levels , meaning they come in different shapes and sizes - some with wood-panelled walls , some with skylights and some with cute little terraces . All are luxurious , as quiet as the countryside and exquisitely decorated with bold botanical prints , velvet and suede furnishings , and statement headboards , however , so a good night ’ s sleep is guaranteed .
Rounding off our art-centric experience , we spent the day soaking up Mayfair ’ s underrated culture , browsing Cork St ’ s prestigious contemporary galleries - Waddington Custot , Holtermann Fine Art and the flagship Mayor Gallery ( which dates back to 1925 ) before our last stop – the recently opened Farm Shop on South Audley St ( farmshop . co . uk ).
Owned by Artfarm , the hospitality branch of gallerists Hauser & Wirth of Mount St . Restaurant acclaim , this handsome Grecian building is stacked with fresh produce from Durslade Farm – piles of cheese , an on-site butcher , English wine and the best sourdough I ’ ve ever tasted , but , better still , there ’ s a ( not-so ) secret wine bar downstairs . Great glass panes line one side of the space while the rest is a white-walled den of flickering candles and gleaming glasses . Art is everywhere , naturally , and the wine list runs to 200 , with the aim of keeping at least 40 wines available by the glass . Nameless , this wine bar is a must on your Mayfair itinerary – there is little more chic than sharing a plate of cheese over a bottle of fabulous wine … while admiring the art that surrounds you , of course .
themayfairtownhouse . com mountstrestaurant . com
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