LONDON
So , let ’ s talk about the name . Its origin was a burning question on my lips , so no doubt it ’ ll be on yours too … ‘ Hovarda ’ is a word used in both Greek and Turkish meaning ‘ a generous host with a free spirit ’, which perfectly embodies the attentive and very professional but equally fun hospitality offering that this intriguing establishment is named after .
Although it ’ s absolutely possible and perfectly plausible to take advantage of the restaurant as just that , Hovarda is also a lively bar and late-night party destination . Alongside an irresistible Mediterranean menu ( more on that later ), there ’ s also a packed calendar of events and nightly DJ sets , with the bar offering an expansive selection of cocktails featuring reinvented classics with a touch of Aegean charm , all designed to elevate the dining experience .
Decked out stylishly in brushed bronze , copper , dark terracotta tones and clean lines – the low-level lighting adding a hushed elegance and mystique that plays perfectly into its personality – Hovarda ’ s Mediterranean influence is invoked in the mosaics lining the entrance , tables topped with patterned tiles and Ottoman fabrics that add an opulent touch .
A table of four , we settled into our hickorycoloured bucket chairs in preparation to try some of the cocktails for which the restaurant is famed . ‘ Grape ’, a tart blend of Belvedere vodka , green grape and lemon grounded by an earthy hit of verjus was a refreshing aperitif , as was the equally citrussy ‘ Negrumi ’, a heady mix of zesty gin , Milan bitter , Turin vermouth , grapefruit and bergamot . For something completely different , try the ‘ Smoky Walnut ’, a delicious and intense concoction of mezcal , walnut vermouth and Campari with spice-forward notes of pepper , clove and cinnamon .
Delighted with our choice of cocktails , which worked their magic beautifully , sparking each of our appetites without overwhelming our senses , it was at last time to sample the menu . The collective delight lit up in our eyes so brightly when we saw an entire sharing section devoted solely to ‘ Bread and Spread ’ that I ’ m pretty sure the table next to us saw it . A genius pre-starter , this was no ordinary
bread and butter situation and was instead a heaving selection of both crisp sourdough brushed with aromatic thyme and toasted pitta dressed with extra-virgin olive oil , salt and oregano accompanied by creamy taramasalata enriched with nutty bottarga and sweet dill oil , lavish hummus with slightly bitter black sesame seeds and spicy chilli oil , and a light , whipped tzatziki that cleansed the palate as we devoured the lot .
The menu in its entirety focuses on dishes from the area surrounding the Aegean Sea , an arm of the Mediterranean located between the Greek and Turkish coasts . With an emphasis on seafood but plenty of options for both plant-based eaters and carnivores , the 70-cover restaurant also features a daily-changing menu determined by what the day boats catch each day from around the British Isles , alongside a more extensive Aegean-inspired menu .
For starters , we settled on two dishes from the ‘ Meze ’ section ; classic fried squid served with a briny squid ink mayo that sang with umami , coating the deliciously crisp squid with zingy hits of lemon , and the scallop served with ezme , elderflower dressing and parsley . For those not in the know , ezme is a traditional Turkish spicy salad made with tomatoes , spicy green peppers and red pepper paste - paired with the sweet , buttery scallop and the herbal earthiness of elderflower and parsley , it was a beautifully balanced and very tasty dish .
Although tempted to follow our seafood starters with more fish ( very easily done with incredible dishes on the menu including lobster in a basil-infused bisque and stone bass with sweet red datterini tomatoes and meaty kalamata olives ), we decided to opt for meat for our mains - and we were not disappointed .
A Greek classic , the slow-roasted lamb kleftiko was melt-in-the-mouth tender with deep garlic , lemon and herb flavours that permeated the juices it was served in , which of course we promptly mopped up in a swarm of keen forks holding crunchy-on-the-outside and fluffy-on-the-inside roast potatoes . The food is truly exceptional here , so you won ’ t go wrong whatever you choose , but our star of the evening was a show-stopping tomahawk steak . Made for sharing and marbled with generous fat for extra flavour and moisture while cooking , it was faultless – butter-soft and cooked on the bone for a depth of taste that made it almost gamey , we tucked in with a side order of crisp chips and a Greek salad with barrel-aged Feta .
We were too full for pudding … said me … never ! Of course we had to find some space for dessert and somehow we did , finishing our feast with an indulgently sticky baklava with vanilla ice cream and a chocolate twist – the twofold twist being both a silky orange caramel and a gentle touch of chilli oil that reawakened our already spoiled taste buds .
Before you rush to book this treasure trove of Aegean excellence , a word on the location . You may be thinking that Soho makes perfect sense for a hip hangout that does day to night dining , drinking and ( optional ) dancing , right ? But Canary Wharf – London ’ s central business and financial district – surely that doesn ’ t add up ?
In fact , it makes perfect sense . In recent years , the area directly surrounding Canary Wharf ’ s bustling business hub has undergone a dramatic creative renaissance and although surrounded by a sea of skyscrapers ( which only serves to make it even cooler ), the locale is now a delightfully eccentric corner of the capital consisting of characterful multi-storey studio spaces made from repurposed shipping containers . Hovarda ’ s position aboard a floating pavilion in Wood Wharf couldn ’ t be a better spot to personify the spirit of sunsoaked Mediterranean shores , plus there ’ s a handy Elizabeth line link back to Stratford for a high-speed connection back to Kent .
Your night at Hovarda might take the shape of a pitstop – a couple of glasses of perfectly chilled wine and some fresh Mediterranean meze ; it might mean a slap-up three-course meal with cocktails and coffee ; and , with a 2am license , it might end up with you dancing into the early hours . Whatever shape your evening takes , this restaurant an unmissable addition to London ’ s ever-evolving foodie scene and I can guarantee you won ’ t be disappointed .
canarywharf . hovarda . london hovarda _ canarywharf
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