KENTSTAYCATION glass partitions ensure the dining space is at once romantic , intimate and inviting .
Taking our seats at a cosy table for two , Mr R and I readily perused the menu , beginning with the two nibbles : award-winning local sourdough from Canterbury ’ s Gilda Bakery and Nocellara olives as we appeased the elegantly presented affair of six starters , six mains and six sides .
A tough call , we eventually opted for the braised pig cheek ; a super moist dish , delicately seasoned and offset with carrot purée , fennel pollen and Greek yogurt , and the Rye Bay scallops , delicately seared and served with dulce , sea lettuce and a clever warm tartare with hints of caper and citrus to cut through .
Having read chef David ’ s recipe for wild halibut in our last issue , it was a foregone conclusion that this would be Mr R ’ s pick . He was rewarded with beautifully white shards of delicate fish , braised baby fennel and a heady bone marrow and caviar sauce . I was one of the lucky ones to nab the Romney Marsh lamb rack before it proved a restaurant sellout that evening , enabling me to enjoy the fresh flavours of pea and mint purée alongside a pickled rosemary jus , which not only offered seasonal warmth to the dish but also perfect dunkability for the the side order of beef dripping chips .
Plump , fluffy and super crispy , as delightful as they were , and most unwarranted for me , they were pipped to the ‘ star side ’ spot by a gorgeous plate of sautéed green beans with shallots , proving again that simple approaches to really great fresh produce really is the magic ingredient here .
Desserts , if you have room , offer the same approach to great seasonal cookery . Wanting a bit of summer freshness , we opted first for the lemon meringue pie , a deconstructed take on the classic comprising crumbled shortcrust , marshmallow fluff , shards of meringue and sharp homemade lemon curd with an accompanying raspberry sorbet that was an absolute triumph . On the recommendation of our server Maddy , we were encouraged to try the chocolate mousse with beignets , a dish bursting with mini doughnut bites , rich dulce de leche , salted caramel ice cream and blood orange gel , however the star chocolate mousse was smooth , rich and decadent enough on its own that the rest was pure indulgence .
Gardenia is open to the public for dining only , as well as to hotel guests . We were lucky enough to secure a sought-after stay in one of the wonderfully appointed mews cottages . Modern and spacious , our ground-floor room boasted a roll-top bath and huge walk-in shower , king-size bed and lounge area , as well as an outside terrace . Offering dual-aspect views overlooking the tendered lawns and outdoor swimming pool - thank you sunshine - it afforded us a great base for exploring the grounds , enjoying an afternoon siesta ,
partaking in an alfresco morning Nespresso and offered a excuse , if ever we needed one , to stay around just long enough to secure a highly acclaimed afternoon tea date too !
If you ’ ve never had the pleasure of the quintessential pastime here , you simply must . Notable as the first estate to serve afternoon tea to aristocratic guests thanks to the fact that Eastwell was once home to Queen Victoria ’ s son Prince Alfred , you too can indulge like the lords and ladies of yore , sat in the panelled drawing room , aside the fireplace and garden view windows . Enjoy a Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé afternoon tea upgrade as we did for just £ 49.99 per person ( afternoon teas start at £ 34pp ), which includes a wide selection of artisan teas and infusions and mix of seasonal sandwiches , savouries , sweet treats and ( seriously delicious ) crumbly handmade scones ; a fitting end to a stay fit for a queen .
Gardenia at Eastwell Manor is open seven days a week , advance booking is essential .
Gardenia Eastwell Manor Eastwell Park Ashford TN25 4HR
www . champneys . com / hotels / eastwellmanor / dining / gardenia
eastwellmanor eastwell . manor www . insidekent . co . uk • 59